Three years ago I was fortunate enough to retire and knowing I had 22,000 sq. feet of greenhouse frame to take down and sell plus dig up thousands of cubic feet of concrete footings, propane and water lines etc. I put my 1919 Touring into mothballs by removing the battery and draining the fuel tank, fuel line and carburetor. I am preparing to start it up in the next couple of weeks and will drain the oil and replace so that the pan dips contain fresh oil for the rod bearings. My question is this. Should I take the inspection cover off the bottom of the pan and squirt liberal amounts of oil on the rod and crank bearings so that on initial start up they are not too dry? I realize modern oil coats internal parts quite well but after all this time would it be smart to pre-lube the bearings as much as possible? Any other tips appreciated. Thanks...
1. Change the oil
2. Pull spark plugs and put some marvel mystery oil in (4 squirts per cyl) and hand crank a dozen revolutions or more.
3 Replace the spark plugs
4. Take off Transmission inspection cover, clean screen and pour a cup of marvel mystery oil over the bands etc.
5 Start it up
Yeah, Jon gave pretty good advice. I wouldn't take that Rod-access lower crankcase inspection cover off. Your rod and main bearings will become sufficiently lubed just by hand or starter motor cranking. My biggest concern would be dry piston rings.
Thanks for the help. I did add some MMO to the cylinders and hand cranked 10-12 revolutions, added fresh gasoline to the tank and drained some from the tank sediment bowl and the carburetor, checked the radiator and......after three years she started right up within 5-6 seconds! I must have added a bit too much MMO to the cylinders because I killed every mosquito and wasp in the barn with the initial smoke from the tail pipe!!!
Well the Zika virus won't be a issue around your place for a while if you killed off the skeeters!
Hum green house frame? Hum, I want a small green house! Is this pipe frame or?
I forgot to tell you. The MMO in the cylinder does make them smoke. Should have cleared up in a few minutes.
Glad to hear the T is running.
Jon, Thanks again....
Mac, Yes it was all pipe framing since the 40' X 100' sheets of plastic could be stretched over the frame no matter what the configuration but it was larger galvanized pipe, usually 2-1/2 inch diameter for our winds here on the Gulf Coast. Greenhouses are great for starting plants earlier in the Spring and growing them longer into Fall but like boats you always want one a bit larger! I owned and operated the nursery for 40 years but like farming it was almost always a 7 day a week job. Plants don't know about weekends and Holidays.....
Welcome back Michael!
Welcome Back!!! Michael. We missed you!
Thanks guys, it's been way too long since I worked on the old iron and still have the '31 A to get out of mothballs after I clean the '19 up and get it spiffy. To those of you that live in areas without "mud dauber" wasps I am jealous. Even with a cover over the Model T there must be 30-40 rock hard dirt nests in all types of places including the wiring on the firewall. Spent 2 hours today carefully removing tennis balls clods of dried mud nests in the engine area and very carefully washing out the radiator fins where 3 huge nests were imbedded deep. Thankfully I had the carburetor intake covered these three years. Wet mud everywhere now but at least it is on the ground. Plan on moving the older iron to the new barn which is much more air tight which will hopefully solve this problem!!!!
On Barney, I found dauber nests inside the valve cover too, better check there also! My intake was also blocked by them! @!#@!!! Daubers!!
A few years ago, I removed the door panel and trim on the passenger side door on my '25 coupe to fix the window riser. The entire outer door frame area was covered with mud dauber nests all the way around! They can get through unbelievably small spaces. Dave