So I took out the T for a quick drive after replacing the wrong bolts (only 2) on the engine/pan brackets with the correct 4 bolts and wood blocks.
Prior to doing this work the handbrake would ease forward from neutral pretty easy.
After the fix it jumps forward from neutral, and high gear does not engage.
I had to use my foot to pull back the pedal for it to engage.
Now I am wondering, since I used a jack and wood as a safety to hold the pan/engine from falling on my head while I changed the bolts that I might have pushed things up and bent/twisted something.
I can't figure it out...
Once it stops raining I will post a video of what is going on under the boards that way you can see the action of how the hand brake moves.
Thanks in advance for advice.
Check to make sure that the high clutch lever bolt is properly aligned with the emergency brake cam. Make sure that the bolt moves off the back of the cam when the brake lever is fully forward and that the bolt climbs back up the cam when the lever is pulled back:
Thanks Mark... I'll adjust it but what has me worried is that I had to have done something for it to change from one day to another... And I never touched the pedals or levers or did anything to the bands...
Apparently, when you changed the bolts and put in the wood blocks, the transmission was moved a little. You will notice that the cam is on the brake shaft but the clutch lever is on the side of the transmission. A fraction of an inch can make a big difference in the adjustment of the bolt on the clutch lever. I have even found that the brake cross shaft was slightly bent the brake handle would not work correctly and could affect the clutch adjustment.
Okay, here is the video... sorry for the poor quality, I recorded it HD but it looks like youtube lowered the resolution when I uploaded it...
Wanted to say that before I placed the new bolts the hand break would not jump like that, I had to push it forward...
Anyway, your input would be greatly appreciated...
In my brief experience with my Model T (3 years), some sideways movement of the rear shaft in the hogshead is normal.
I always hold my handbrake during its full stroke when I move it forward, but I just tried mine and it certainly feels like it wants to "jump" forward like yours in the video. It's doing that because the bolt that rides on the emergency brake cam is coming off the shallow slope of the cam and onto the steeper, rear part of the cam just before it goes off the back end of the cam. That action also seems normal (to me).
It looks like there is a lot of slop in your low speed linkage, check for worn pivot pins and wallowed out holes.
Others with more experience may have better advice, but I don't see anything seriously wrong. See if you can do something to reduce the slop in the low speed link (maybe new pins) and follow the "free neutral" adjustment shown earlier in this thread. Good luck!
Okay... this might be one (hopefully the only one) of the reasons why I have so much play
Side note... what is this part called (part number) that way I can order it and have it here by the time I get back from my trip...
Chris if you are seeing this... the uploading keeps rotating the pictures... can't get them in the correct orientation. I guess it is not liking vertical photos...
It's called the low speed link, Lang's offers it as a set or you can order the individual parts:
Be sure to install the new link with the cotter pin inboard like in the drawings above, or you might get binding/interference.
You might also need to weld up and re-drill the hole in the clutch pedal. That hole tends to wear as well as the link wearing as shown in your video. When everything is adjusted right, the pedal should move forward without closing the band for about one inch till you reach the neutral position for the clutch. This will also be the position of the neutral when the parking lever is halfway back or all the way back. After you reach the neutral position the clutch pedal should begin to move sideways toward the hogshead as you are depressing the pedal into low. The pedal will stop moving about 1 1/2 inch above the floorboard and the low band will be tight. It is also possible that when you replaced the bolts in the motor mounts, that it changed the position of the pedals in relation to the floorboard.
There are also a slow speed cam and a slow speed notch inside the hogshead. If those are worn, your low gear can't be adjusted correctly and your pedal can stick down or the low gear will engage with the pedal below the floorboard.
It is kind of complicated to get all these things adjusted correctly. It might be good if you can find some club member in your locality who is experienced with transmissions to help you.
I thought of one more thing which could be causing your problem. The slots in the floorboards. Be sure the pedal does not rub on the floorboard as you push it down.
Thanks guys! Part ordered from Lang's. Norm, low is fine its when I let go into high that I have had to use my foot to pull it up... lets see how things are once I fit in the new part.
The hole seems okay, but... we will really know once the new low speed link is installed...
Okay off to make sure everything is ready for our trip tomorrow... going to miss my T!
How far down is the pedal when you are in low? Sometimes they will stick down. You can tighten up the low band just a little and then the pedal will come back up by itself. Just be careful that the low band does not drag in neutral.
Anyway, Robert, that link does look very worn. It should not have as much free play as you show in the picture.