Wood Wheel Runout

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Wood Wheel Runout
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By henry h on Sunday, March 20, 2016 - 11:01 am:

What are the options when a respoked wheel felloe exhibits excessive runout? It's a front, so it's not an axle problem. The hub seems to run true. And the spokes came from Lang's. Can the hub be pushed partway out and re-pressed? (the bolts are already in). Are there other options?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Sunday, March 20, 2016 - 01:32 pm:

The wood felloe must be true and not out of round radially or you'll not have a smooth ride.
The rim conforms to the wood felloe if it is pressed in.

Art Wilson and I fixed some wheels awhile ago and they turned out perfect.

After you determine it is the wood that is OOR the best way is to remove the rim and take a cut to true up the wood felloe. This is easy on a mill with a spindle adapter. Glue on a shim to the newly trued wheel and cut to size that provides an interference fit into the rim.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By henry h on Sunday, March 20, 2016 - 02:22 pm:

I left out some detail, it's a steel felloe.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Hood -Long Beach, California on Sunday, March 20, 2016 - 03:01 pm:

Henry, the experts may not agree with my solution, but it worked for me. I had a steel fellow 30X3.5 wheel with quite a bit of wobble. All of the spokes were tight, the hub ran true, and the fellow, when laid on a flat surface, touched all the way around on both sides, so I assumed it was straight and true also.

I used a plywood disc larger than the fellow with a hub size hole in the middle, and a plunge router to true up the hub area of the spokes on both sides. This eliminated almost all of my wobble, less than 1/4 inch now.

I did this as an experiment, just to see if I could and was very pleased with the results. If I did it again, I would make some cutouts in the disc to better see the cutting operation on the hub and make a larger base for the router so that it was always fully supported over the hole. With a little more effort and care, I think I could have eliminated all of the wobble.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By henry h on Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 12:55 pm:

Jeff,
While you are routing, the hub is removed? With new spokes, is it possible to remove the hub after pressing them in?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 01:21 pm:

Jeff,

I did the exact same thing. Worked perfect.

Henry,

Yes, the hub has to be out. You would route the side that faces the hub flange. You can remove the hub after pressing the spokes, HOWEVER, it is absolutely essential that removing the hub does not also upset the position of the spokes. Otherwise it's all for nothing. Being that this is all a new assembly I'm guessing everything is very tight. I would suspect that pushing out the hub without moving the spokes around too would be nearly impossible. Just for fun, you might try rotating the hub within the wheel, 180 degrees and seeing if it makes things better/worse/same.


Add a Message


This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Username:  
Password:

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration