Etimer resistors

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Etimer resistors
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gerald J. Roberts - Hershey, PA on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 06:37 pm:

Out of service -I need to know asap please.

What is the radio shack equivalent for the resistor on the coils of the etimer system?

Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Cameron Whitaker, Oklahoma City on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 06:47 pm:

It's not a resistor, but a fuse. You can get by with a piece of wire.

The E-Timer requires that the points on the coils be shorted together.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Hughes, Raymond, NE on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 06:48 pm:

Gerald: Those are not resistors. They are fuses and can be replaced by a wire. They are to short out the internal capacitor. The only reason the fuse is used is to protect the coil winding if it is on for an extended time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gerald J. Roberts - Hershey, PA on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 07:08 pm:

If that's the case, I guess my etimer has failed. My T is backfiring like mad. Can they be repaired?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank van Ekeren (Australia) on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 07:12 pm:

Try putting the E timer in manual mode and see what it does.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 07:14 pm:

From your symptoms I would be sceptical that the etimer has failed. I would take really hard look at your installation and re-read the installation instructions. Contact Mike Kosser for more technical help


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David L Corman on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 07:29 pm:

Two E-Timers failed On the Winter Tour this year


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 07:45 pm:

The correct term is ecofuse and you can buy 4 for $10 from Tip Top Timers. I bought 4 extras when I bought the E-timer.

That was because a demo showed how easy it was to replace the E-timer with a Ford original style timer, if it was to fail.

Also shown and noted was the fact that all four ecofuse units will immediately short and burn out, if they are not disconnected.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 07:48 pm:

Gerald, what procedures were you doing on the engine
when the fuse link on the coil protected the system ?

On the engine mounted coil box, removing or installing the metal coil box lid could touch the coil unit hardware & cause the link to protect that particular coil.

I also had a problem with spark plug gaps opening up beyond the .025" , that caused starting & running problems.... solved with new plugs at .025" gap.

Bob J.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 08:45 pm:

You should convert back to stock Ford ignition. Much more reliable and no cheap modern electronics to worry about.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 08:48 pm:

Eco fuse? Help me out,what is that exactly?
I am familiar with sloblo fuses as pinball machines used them on the flipper coil circuits and such.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Barrett in Auburn Ca. on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 08:58 pm:

There are few e-timer resisters right here on the forum.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 09:05 pm:

Guess that someone is very proud of his attempted thread drift......


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Barrett in Auburn Ca. on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 09:14 pm:

Make that A few resisters. Oops.
Very profound Bob. Thanks for jumping on that one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor - Kenilworth, NJ on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 09:40 pm:

The little jumpers are fuses used to bypass the coil points. They and the external 4A fuse in series with the coil box power lead are there to protect against a Model T wiring fault; if a timer wire breaks off and contacts engine ground; the fuse blows. The E-Timer has its own internal protection. I don't recommend using a jumper wire as a temporary fix unless the 4A fuse is installed with the coil box power wire. By the way, the E-Timer will still operate without the fuse jumpers but performance MAY not be as good since the coil point adjustment may limit performance.

Gerald, send me a PM and I will be happy to assist you trouble shoot your problem.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor - Kenilworth, NJ on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 09:45 pm:

David, two cars fitted with E-Timers may have failed on the Winter tour but I am unaware of any E-Timer failures at this time.

There ARE other components in the Model T ignition system that all must be operating properly for the car to well; not just the E-Timer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor - Kenilworth, NJ on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 10:59 pm:

Gerald, Does your car have a vaporizer carburetor? I have experienced the same symptoms with my 1927 Touring running a vaporizer. The heat plate developed pin holes and permitted air/fuel mixture to enter the exhaust causing numerous loud back-fires.


Another thing that can cause back-firing is an intermittent ignition switch or intermittent coil box power connection where the ignition power is interrupted on/off/on allowing fuel mixture to accumulate and ignite in the exhaust system.

Neither of these causes are related to the E-Timer.


(Message edited by mkossor on March 25, 2016)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Schreiber- Santa Isabel Ecuador on Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 08:43 am:

I would side with Mike, that if indeed there were two e-timer failures on one T tour, Mike would have known about them. The nay-sayers would surely see to that if nowhere else but posts on this forum.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 08:47 am:

I really doubt David would say what he said if it were not true. Jeesh.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Carnegie Spokane, WA on Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 10:17 am:

As the most recent builder of the E-timer (Tip Top Timer), there have been no reported failures of an E-timer that I have heard of.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Schreiber- Santa Isabel Ecuador on Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 10:22 am:

Royce, there has been a crap ton of untruths stated regarding the e-timer. I don't need to repeat them, one just needs to Google and read the different e-timer posts to get my drift. Jeesh


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dean Yoder, Iowa City IA. on Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 11:16 am:

I have ran the E-timer on my 24 touring sense available. The E-timer has worked perfectly. Other components of the stock ford T ignition have failed. Two coils went intermittent. One ignition switch would loose contact.
My motor is getting tired and will oil fowl the #1 plug. I opened the gap to 40 thousandth and cured that.
I have 850+ miles on my 27 chopped touring this year it also has an E-timer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Todd, ............Red Deer, Alberta on Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 11:40 am:

Mack, methinks the fuse are PICO fuses, not eco fuses.
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/axial-radial-thru-hole-fuses/pico-fuses .aspx


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Garnet on Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 03:50 pm:

Yup, the E-Timer is still the Rolls Royce of timers!

Garnet


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Thomas - Centerville, Iowa on Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 08:03 pm:

I was on the Florida tour this year, and there was the usual problems. The only ignition problems that I know of, were stock ignition systems. There may have been others, but with over 100 cars it was hard to keep track of everybody.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeremy Gibson on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 04:49 am:

I'm having issues with my ignition at the moment. You say the E-timer will still sort of work if the small fast fuses blow?

I haven't checked them in years!

You might have just solved my problem :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor - Kenilworth, NJ on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 05:38 am:

Jeremy, the fuse jumpers will not blow unless a timer wire breaks off and contacts engine ground and even then, the 4A fuse in series with the coil box power lead should blow first which would cut all power to the coils alerting you there was a fault.

"E-Timer Problems" to date have typically been faults in other parts of the ignition system: weak battery, poor/loose battery connections, bad battery ground cable (gets very hot during cranking) bad battery cable ground connection, poor/loose/corroded coil box contacts and/or wire terminal connections, wood coil box arcing (difficult to find, intermittent miss, rough running), bad/fouled/wrong gap park plug (0.025" works well), bad/loose spark plug wire terminals or connections. Bad/corroded ignition switch contacts or wire terminals, loose ignition switch wire terminals. There may also be engine or carburetor or fuel (clogged screen) issues responsible for poor performance. I experienced many of these faults over the years and had to troubleshoot and resolve; was never related to the E-Timer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor - Kenilworth, NJ on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 06:02 am:

In my case, over the years, I had to do charge the battery, clean and tighten the battery terminals, replace the battery ground strap, replace the ignition switch, completely dissassemble ALL coil box screws, nuts, insulators and terminals then thoroughly clean them and reassemble (eventually, replaced the wood coil box with black Delrin plastic because noticed arcing just under the wood surface at night after spraying a fine mist of water), cleaned/gapped the plugs, soldered the spark plug terminals and rebuilt the vaporizer carburetor (heat shield rusted out causing back firing) also cleaned the debris clogging the fuel screen several times.

The E-Timer housing also requires good engine ground contact. Newly painted engines or loose fitting timer can impede good timer to engine ground contact.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeremy Gibson on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 06:02 am:

Back to the drawing board then, I have also had most of those problems in the past. At the moment it feels like the coil box arcing again. I have next week off so I'm going to take the ignition system apart and renew everything I can a bit at a time.

I hate electricity! At least when my crank snapped I knew what the problem was straight away haha


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeremy Gibson on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 07:45 am:

How do you guys fix your wires to your timer, I solder connectors on to the wires and tighten them down on the timer. But after 2k miles or so they snap where they bend just after the solder.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Greg Adkisson on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 09:49 am:

stranded wire that is soldered will always break where the solder ends in the wire...crimp with a Klein dimple type crimping tool used by good electricians...never use flat crimping tools, the wire does not stay put with vibration. I try to never solder a connector made for crimping except in special cases where it is clamped in place


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor - Kenilworth, NJ on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 12:55 pm:

I solder the wire after the crimp closest to the screw hole. That ensures good electrical connection but does not allow solder to wick up into the connecting wire making it vulnerable to breaking.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David L Corman on Monday, March 28, 2016 - 09:01 am:

Mike, I have made a terrible mistake about your fine product. It was actually a Tru-Fire unit that had failed for the second time since purchase. I apologize for not verifying before posting. Sincerely, David L Corman


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor - Kenilworth, NJ on Monday, March 28, 2016 - 09:17 am:

David, thank you for acknowledging the mix up, not the first time its happened and doubt it will be the last.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Heyen - Eastern Nebraska on Monday, March 28, 2016 - 01:46 pm:

Jeeesh, an honest mistake. Is suspect those who "jumped on" will also acknowledge their error............

Or not....... :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Walker on Monday, March 28, 2016 - 03:15 pm:

trolls rarly say they are sorry


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor - Kenilworth, NJ on Monday, March 28, 2016 - 04:14 pm:

The troll in question has NEVER acknowledged any of his numerous mistakes and sincerely doubt he will in this instance either. But one can hope. Thank you for your posts.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Heyen - Eastern Nebraska on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 08:26 am:

I bet he simply hasn't followed the thread. I'll bump it up again.

I'm an eternal optimist. If not I wouldn't drive old cars......

:-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 08:30 am:

David... you have earned my respect. Thank you for your honesty.

Bob J.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 08:32 am:

Gerald.... has your problem been fixed ? Please tell us


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 06:59 pm:

YES, Gerald, We all want to know after all this usual "E" response stuff.

After reading some of this thread I'm thinking my wires simply wrapped around might not be making great contact? None are under screw tension....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 07:01 pm:

YES, Gerald, We all want to know after all this usual "E" response stuff.

After reading some of this thread I'm thinking my wires simply wrapped around might not be making great contact? None are under screw tension....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 11:01 am:

Tom, do you still have E-timers available?

The demand may increase with Ts coming out of their winter storage.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 11:05 am:

Tom, do you still have E-timers available?

The demand may increase with Ts coming out of their winter storage.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Carnegie Spokane, WA on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 01:46 pm:

Tip Top Timers has no E-timers at this time. There may be vendors that still have some.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gerald J. Roberts on Friday, April 15, 2016 - 12:22 am:

Sorry I didn't get back to the Forum right away. My computer has been giving me troubles.

The Etimer is vindicated. It turns out that my plugs were fouled. A through cleaning and check of the gap got me running just as great as it has since I installed the Etimer almost 5 years ago. I love the Etimer, and it has been great.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Friday, April 15, 2016 - 04:25 am:

:-):-):-):-) Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Friday, April 15, 2016 - 04:53 am:

Gerald: I had a similar problem with plugs that had gaps larger than .025". Thanks for getting back mto the Forum !


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor - Kenilworth, NJ on Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 12:20 am:

Gerald, Very pleased to learn you found the root cause of your performance woes and have your car running well again. Thank you for the update.


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