Finally got my laurel front end brackets installed this moves the front axle forward 2.5"
What the best way to lengthen the crank handle.?
Or should I just make a new one from scratch or?
I would think the section that engages the crankshaft pin would need to be lengthened. In my opinion, I'd use an original crank as a pattern, and make a new one with the section that engages the crank pin the 2.5 inches (or more) longer.
Bob, I think you could just lengthen it. I would cut it off at the crank pin hole,point or chisel end it and the piece that you are using, weld it 100%. You can clamp it in a piece of angle iron to keep it straight. Then just drill a new crank pin hole.
Bob, I don't have any good pictures handy (and my diminishing computer skills seem to have made it more difficult for me to load new photos onto my computer). However my boat-tail has similar type lowering in the front end. All I did was use a big vise and pipe to bend the vertical part of the crank handle forward somewhat from the center (this part I did cold). Because I used an earlier handle (1919) and the pin/rivet that holds the hand handle onto the crank is the weak spot, I used heat about an inch away from the pin/rivet to bend the crank and bring the handle back to straight relative to the center of the crank. (Does that make sense?)
I had to guess at it a bit, and did a re-tweak to get it far enough forward to clear the axle, but not lose much diameter/leverage.
I got it to where the crank barely clears the axle. But has worked fine and looks good. The car has no starter, so I always hand crank to start.
Just my suggestion. Of course, if your setup lowers the front much more than mine? This idea may not work.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Just weld on the needed length. Years ago took another crank handle that was well rusted and worn and cut out a segment and welded it to the better crank, just in the way that John posted. Used a piece of angle iron. Ground the weld joint smooth , could never tell it wasn't always 3" longer
Is your hand that big?
Larry, the shank going to the ratchet is 3" longer, note the axle on my speedster is now out front from the Laurel brackets that hang the front spring behind the axle and drops the chassis.
I do it a little differently. Most crank handles are badly worn where they run in the bushing, so I make the cut further towards the front on the good section of the shaft and add as much as is needed.
Do heavily chamfer both ends of the join so the weld has good penetration.
Do take measures to get the crank pin hole in the same orientation to the handle. Otherwise you may find using the handle somewhat problematical.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Thanks guys mines not worn to much one more question should I make little longer bushing in the pan.
My speedster a cranker ONLY
Sometimes, swap meets are a big help. A few years ago, I bought a very nice crank for my '13 at Hershey. It only had .001" wear! Doesn't get any better than that.
I've lengthened my crank too, should I ever use it on a lowered car. There's no need for a longer bushing - but a new one is often needed. My engine is a hand cranker too - and it has a milled Prus head giving it 5.8:1 in compression.