Electrical troubles for a newbie

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Electrical troubles for a newbie
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allen banks on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 08:01 pm:

I tried to get her out of the garage for the first time this year. (23 roadster) turned the key to battery, got lots of good coil sound, hit the starter and she fired right up for a second before dying. Tried a gain with the choke and fired up again then died seconds later. This time no coil buzzing. Stepped on the starter and could not get her to fire up this time. Checked a few connections and tried again, this time I got nothing out of the starter.
Put a new 6 volt battery in it tonight and still no coil buzz or starter. Checked the headlights and they were good to go. Again checked a few connections and still nothing only this time no headlights!
Any thoughts?!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 08:07 pm:

The coils operate on power and ground. The timer supplies ground. With the key on BATT you can use a short piece of wire from a head bolt to each of the lower coil terminals. Each should buzz when grounded. Try that and let us know what you find.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 08:40 pm:

I think Royce meant to apply a ground to each of the UPPER terminals since the lower terminals go to the spark plugs.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allen banks on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 08:51 pm:

Right, I took a solid wire, applied it to the top terminals and to a head bolt with no paint on it. This is with the key turned to batt. No buzzing on any of the coils.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 09:15 pm:

That means no power getting through the coils, which likely means no power getting to the coils. Check your switch and all connections.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 09:18 pm:

Then you don't have any power to the coil box. If you have a volt meter then measure the DC voltage at the lower power connection to the coil box when the key is on and see if you have 6V there? I suspect you will NOT have it so trace that wire back to the ignition switch and see if you have an intermittent ignition switch by jiggling the key switch back and forth. The ignition gets its power input from a yellow/black short wire coming from the ammeter. The other side of the ammeter has a solid yellow wire that goes to the 3rd terminal from the left on the firewall mounted barrier strip. From that 3rd terminal on the barrier strip there is a solid yellow wire that goes to the battery side connection of the starter foot switch. Somewhere in the path that I just told you about there is an unwanted "break" in the circuit path. Usually it is the ignition switch not making a good contact but not always.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By CharlesHebert on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 09:19 pm:

Check the floor starter button.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Borland. Bathurst. NSW. Australia. on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 09:22 pm:

G'day,

The fact that you have no power at all to starter,lights or ignition would tell me that you have dirty or damaged joints or cabling to investigate.Also check your earthing.

Peter


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Borland. Bathurst. NSW. Australia. on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 09:24 pm:

Forgot to mention check your switch assembly. They are old and can get problems as well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 11:18 pm:

1: battery cable connections on the battery. 2: Battery ground connection at the frame. 3: Connections at the starter button (cables & main feed wire). If you're losing the starter & the coil power it's probably something in the areas mentioned. I'm thinking a poor connection at the battery + and main feed wire terminal on the starter switch.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 11:19 pm:

Another thought: braided ground cable. Lose it their junk.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Aldrich Orting Wa on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 11:28 am:

Had a braided ground cable die on me last year on the first day of the CANAM tour. Took a week to find it and the car was parked for the 2 day tour.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 11:57 am:

Start at the battery itself and work forward, from one connection point to the next, looking for where you lose current. Be sure to check out the ground cable connection to the frame as well. A nicely painted frame makes for a bad ground connection.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Snyder on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 12:13 pm:

from 1 Newb to another , i kept getting missed coil buzzez . it turned out to be rusty nuts on the 6v side the resistance at every connecter was causing my problems . took the nuts off and sanded off the rust . sprayed corrosion block and replaced . hope this helps...Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 12:16 pm:

My '27 Tudor was a slow cranker. Cleaned everything and even checked out the starter itself. One day while doing a comp. test just to find out what I had I smelled burning. Looking around I finally pulled the rear floor and the braided cable was cooking. Not at the connections but the braid itself. Found out here that the re-po braided cables weren't too good so I went modern. Cranked a lot better after that.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allen banks on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 08:54 pm:

Thanks all, finally got her running. I swapped out the ignition but that wasn't the problem. Come to find out one of the wires on the timer was loose. That was causing the intermittent coil buzzing. The battery slowly dying caused the starter and eventually the lights to quit so I'm glad I got a new battery too. Thanks again all!!!!


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