Looking for a crankshaft end play repair shim.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Looking for a crankshaft end play repair shim.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick pang on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 05:22 pm:

Would gladly pay for item plus shipping. Thank you in advance.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 05:24 pm:

Derrick, the excessive end play can be shimmed out of the crankshaft but, the best way is to replace the 3rd main bearing cap. This video show how you can make your own shim. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHcFjTYgJ54

Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 05:26 pm:

Derrick
I know people that have repaired the end float by soldering up the thrust face on the rear main cap and then carefully filing it to fit. It worked well for them. I have never needed to try this


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick pang on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 05:34 pm:

Yes, George Clipner and I have been talking about getting a new third main bearing cap. We'd have to go in this week to measure it. However, the cost of the caps these days are a bit steep. So being that we are trying to work on a budget, we thought we'd go with the the repair shim. But I will also look into the other info you've both given. Thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 07:07 pm:

Royce's dad added Babbitt to the thrust on the main bearing cap on my 24 engine. I filed it to fit. It worked. You will need a 200 or 300 watt soldering iron to get it done. If you have finesse with a Prestolite torch you could use it to build up the Babbitt. An old rod would likely have enough Babbitt to get it done.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 07:43 pm:

A year or two ago, there was an extensive article in one of the two big club magazines about how to do what Les and Ted are talking about. Trouble is, I can't remember if it was in "The Vintage Ford" magazine, or "Model T Times" magazine. Maybe somebody else on the forum will have a better "rememory" than me!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Harper - Keene, NH on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 10:23 pm:

This is helpful:

http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/Excessive%20Crankshaft%20Endplay%20Repair.pdf


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Garrison - Rice Minnesota on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 - 11:13 pm:

Bill, that's the article! It's a good fix. It worked for me. The cost of the 200 amp soldering iron was a bit high but, it saved the engine for a couple more years of running.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable - Kiama NSW OZ on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 12:03 am:

This appears to be what Derrick was asking about.

spacer


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable - Kiama NSW OZ on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 12:07 am:

Damn, sorry about that, still you won't need your specks to read the name etc


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank van Ekeren (Australia) on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 12:26 am:

The vendors list them, $19.95 from langs.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick pang on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 12:43 am:

Peter Kable would that be for sale by any chance?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick pang on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 12:44 am:

Langs has them backed up since November. They are currently my on back order. Apparently the guy who makes it only does it 2 times a year.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 01:28 am:

Lang is offering this:
https://www.modeltford.com/item/3030SHIM.aspx

Maybe it helps

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George n Los Angeles CA on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 01:35 am:

I noticed that Sacramento Ford listed the accs. shim also but Derrick checked and they were on B/O also.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George n Los Angeles CA on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 02:27 am:

Les S. Wouldn't solder be a little too soft ??


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dean Yoder, Iowa City IA. on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 02:36 am:

George, Just use Babbitt with good flux for the solder.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable - Kiama NSW OZ on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 02:52 am:

Derrick,
I'm in Australia so it would cost more than the vender's price to post it to you. Someone there must have one they can send to you but if no one comes forward and you still want it you can have it for the cost of the postage ( I will have to check exactly what that would be).

It's been on the shelf here for years and personally I would do as advised by those above.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick Pang on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 02:56 am:

I really appreciate that Peter Kable. I will let you know. If I do not come across one that is closer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George n Los Angeles CA on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 03:28 am:

Thanks Dean, that's what I would think.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John McGinnis in San Jose area, CA. on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 09:27 am:

My method is to make a thin stick of babbitt and puddle it on the rear main cap thrust face. I use an 1.25" round bar in the bearing bore to serve as a heat sink. Use acetylene torch, very small tip to puddle the babbitt stick. Finish with a file or chuck up the round bar/main cap in a lathe and face.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jay - In Northern California on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 10:28 am:

Here's links to two different adjustable main caps from the accessory of the days posts.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/195658.html

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/116466.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John McGinnis in San Jose area, CA. on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 04:27 pm:

Here is the installation of the adjustable center main....
center main


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 05:21 pm:

Derrick,

I have a few of those shims. Send me a PM if you want one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 06:01 pm:

My new Snyder's catalog arrived today, and they list a "Crankshaft End Play Shim #T-3030-SH" as a new item, too late to classify. Copy of Atwood Brass Co. period accessory.
Hmm they also show brand new Model A brake Rear backing plates $175 (pr or each, doesn't say)--I can't believe there is enough demand for those--aren't there still lots of them floating around in parts stashes?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 06:20 pm:

Derrick, I would not install one of those Crankshaft endplay shims. It is a band aid-fix at best. It is installed on the front of the engine where all of the dirt and grit goes when you drive the car and if you don't keep it clean and oiled it will wear out. It would be much better to replace the cap.

Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick Pang on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 08:47 pm:

Thanks for the input Stephen. I'm working out all my options and I have definitely learned a few more here. The guys and I will talk about what our best shot is based on what we have.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By keith g barrier Savannah Tn. on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 09:02 pm:

Derrick, I have soldered on extra Babbitt several times through the years with good results. I take an old bearing (if I don't have any new to use) melt it down in a piece of angle iron to make a rod then use an old copper iron heated up and flux. Build it up a little more than needed and carefully file to fit. My 24 has been running this way for the last 4 years. KGB


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