Would gladly pay for item plus shipping. Thank you in advance.
Derrick, the excessive end play can be shimmed out of the crankshaft but, the best way is to replace the 3rd main bearing cap. This video show how you can make your own shim. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHcFjTYgJ54
I know people that have repaired the end float by soldering up the thrust face on the rear main cap and then carefully filing it to fit. It worked well for them. I have never needed to try this
Yes, George Clipner and I have been talking about getting a new third main bearing cap. We'd have to go in this week to measure it. However, the cost of the caps these days are a bit steep. So being that we are trying to work on a budget, we thought we'd go with the the repair shim. But I will also look into the other info you've both given. Thanks!
Royce's dad added Babbitt to the thrust on the main bearing cap on my 24 engine. I filed it to fit. It worked. You will need a 200 or 300 watt soldering iron to get it done. If you have finesse with a Prestolite torch you could use it to build up the Babbitt. An old rod would likely have enough Babbitt to get it done.
A year or two ago, there was an extensive article in one of the two big club magazines about how to do what Les and Ted are talking about. Trouble is, I can't remember if it was in "The Vintage Ford" magazine, or "Model T Times" magazine. Maybe somebody else on the forum will have a better "rememory" than me!
This is helpful:
Bill, that's the article! It's a good fix. It worked for me. The cost of the 200 amp soldering iron was a bit high but, it saved the engine for a couple more years of running.
This appears to be what Derrick was asking about.
Damn, sorry about that, still you won't need your specks to read the name etc
The vendors list them, $19.95 from langs.
Peter Kable would that be for sale by any chance?
Langs has them backed up since November. They are currently my on back order. Apparently the guy who makes it only does it 2 times a year.
Lang is offering this:
Maybe it helps
I noticed that Sacramento Ford listed the accs. shim also but Derrick checked and they were on B/O also.
Les S. Wouldn't solder be a little too soft ??
George, Just use Babbitt with good flux for the solder.
I'm in Australia so it would cost more than the vender's price to post it to you. Someone there must have one they can send to you but if no one comes forward and you still want it you can have it for the cost of the postage ( I will have to check exactly what that would be).
It's been on the shelf here for years and personally I would do as advised by those above.
I really appreciate that Peter Kable. I will let you know. If I do not come across one that is closer.
Thanks Dean, that's what I would think.
My method is to make a thin stick of babbitt and puddle it on the rear main cap thrust face. I use an 1.25" round bar in the bearing bore to serve as a heat sink. Use acetylene torch, very small tip to puddle the babbitt stick. Finish with a file or chuck up the round bar/main cap in a lathe and face.
Here's links to two different adjustable main caps from the accessory of the days posts.
Here is the installation of the adjustable center main....
I have a few of those shims. Send me a PM if you want one.
My new Snyder's catalog arrived today, and they list a "Crankshaft End Play Shim #T-3030-SH" as a new item, too late to classify. Copy of Atwood Brass Co. period accessory.
Hmm they also show brand new Model A brake Rear backing plates $175 (pr or each, doesn't say)--I can't believe there is enough demand for those--aren't there still lots of them floating around in parts stashes?
Derrick, I would not install one of those Crankshaft endplay shims. It is a band aid-fix at best. It is installed on the front of the engine where all of the dirt and grit goes when you drive the car and if you don't keep it clean and oiled it will wear out. It would be much better to replace the cap.
Thanks for the input Stephen. I'm working out all my options and I have definitely learned a few more here. The guys and I will talk about what our best shot is based on what we have.
Derrick, I have soldered on extra Babbitt several times through the years with good results. I take an old bearing (if I don't have any new to use) melt it down in a piece of angle iron to make a rod then use an old copper iron heated up and flux. Build it up a little more than needed and carefully file to fit. My 24 has been running this way for the last 4 years. KGB