Looking at photos and reading the posts and looking at the service manual, I'm a little confused. I have a wood firewall from a vendor that was purchased in a lot of parts for my 1915 WWI Light Patrol Vehicle that will be a Model T salad when complete. I have a 1915 brass radiator, hood and hood former.
Are there any metal "skins" that would go on this wooden firewall like a cowl, dash, firewall cap, etc?
And, if so, what brackets would I need to mount the metal parts? I have the brass brackets to connect the wooden firewall to the frame and a yoke type bracket to support the steering column to the firewall as well.
Thanks for the guideance.
There is a "hood former" that fits over the outside of your firewall, it creates the metal lip for the rear of the hood to set on, and holds the hood center hinge rod. Two carriage bolts, on in each upper corner, hold this on (maybe the bolts hold something else on too, I forget). The edge of your firewall should be slightly tapered to match the outside of the metal piece. This part is 15-16 only, and finding ones that don't have the hood rod hole wallowed out is difficult (one of Henry's mistakes, it's considered good practice to add a short section of tubing inside the former to hold the rod and prevent it from wearing the hole out.
There is one on ebay. There is also the 1/2 moon piece that fill the hole where the engine sit.
The hood and metal hood former are the only sheet metal pieces needed for construction.
The unique '15-'16 hood former mounts with carriage bolt thru its face to the outside of the wood firewall. The hood fits over it and the radiator.
On the driver side, add the coil box, and a metal moon shape piece over the rear of the block above the upper floorboard if you wish.
That handy steering column accessory fork clamp is nice to have too, going to the firewall.
Added a brass trim strip to cover the firewall edge, but that doesn't have to be done for a war car, less brass or painted army color drab is better.
Interesting. I've got the former, and I fitted it to the wood today and noticed round holes in the former, so I didn't think carriage bolts, but "regular" bolts or even slotted round head cap screws and nuts. I searched the vendors for a former mounting hardware set just to get an eye on what to use. I guess I'm hearing carriage bolts.
No dash. No dash cap, and nno cowl piece, just a little half moon piece if desired.
I'll go check eBay for the part.
I did notice on my former a hole at the top that I presumed was for the hood rod, but I didn't see any hole or mounting for the actual radiator support rod. Is that a seperate mounting bracket for the radiator support rod?
The radiator support rod is a long rod that screws into the back of the upper tank at the radiator with about a 5/16 diameter rod. That rod is inserted through the dash and then passes over the motor and then into the back of the radiator. There is a threaded portion at the HEAD end of the radiator support rod that allows a 3/8-24 threaded nut (and a washer) to slide down the rod and then tighten against the wood surface of the firewall on the engine side of the firewall. That radiator rod hole is centered side to side in the dash at a lower height that makes it parallel with the frame once it is installed to the radiator. That rod does NOT pass through the sheet metal hood former. My son has a very original 1916 Roadster.
The hood former is attached to the body using what are called "step bolts." The heads are larger in diameter and flatter than a carriage bolt. See the discussion on "step bolts" for the 1915-16 hood formers at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/396463.html?1382968444
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A view of a real 1915 to show the radiator rod that John posted.
The hood rod fits into the hole in the hood former.
The two bolt holes in the former should be square--at least mine are. yes, the radiator support rod only goes through the wooden firewall, not the metal former.
Robert's picture should make all this clear and Hap is correct, not Carriage Bolts, but Step Bolts. Used to be able to buy them at Orchard Supply Hardware, but no more.
Step bolts are available from some of the vendors [and I would also guess other locations]. For example Lang's has step bolts in various sizes at: https://www.modeltford.com/model-t-parts/bolts-and-nuts/bolts/step-bolts/
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One of the ways you can spot a true '15-16 from a conversion, is when they introduced the black radiator, the had to notch out the area over the coilbox for the radiator rod.
Here's the business end of a radiator support rod. This is in a steel firewall, but works the same.
Home made rod. 5/16" rod and 3/8" rod welded together and a washer welded on the end. Not pretty but the price was right.
The speedster rod that came with it was just threaded rod with two nuts on each end to tighten on metal cowl and radiator. I think I can do a little better. But that might hold everything in place until I can get a good measurement and purchase or create a correct rod.
I get the picture now. The holes in my former are vebeled so that a round head or oval head bolt or screw will fit flush with the former and not stick out from the surface.
And I found the hole in the dash for the radiator support rod between the 8 coil box holes and remember reading a post about having to remove the coil box to insert the rod. I'm using the coil box on the 26/27 engine and mounting the coil box on the dash as a "dummy" maybe make it a first aid or storage box,
So, no metal cap or cowl to fit, just the former and the radiator rod and the hood.
Thanks to all.