I was having a terrible time trying to "restart" my '14. Started beautifully when cold, ran fine, but don't you dare stop it to refuel, get a cup of coffee.....It just WOULD NOT restart! I read with great interest a thread titled "Starting Problems" initiated by Bill Elliot, who described to the tee the same problems I was having. In that thread, Royce mentioned the rebuilt carburetor most likely had a "gross" (sp?) jet inside, that was most likely gumming up with the additives in the gasoline and causing the problem.
Well, today I took delivery to two carburetors rebuilt by Stan Howe, and went out to get my beautiful Holley "G" on the car. An easy half hour operation, and the NH was swapped out for the "G". Two pulls of the crank and she started right up!!
The rebuilt carburetors arrived today:
Looking great under the hood!
And yes, Royce, the recently rebuilt NH (with approximately 75 miles on it) indeed has a grosse jet inside.
Thank you all for your help and expertise. Appreciate it much!
Looks good on there, don't it?
FWIW,I don't like those shutoffs. As far as I can see you can't shut the fuel off prior to the carb inlet so you can shut it off and remove the carb without shutting the fuel off underneath the car. I much prefer a shutoff, a glass bowl filter and then the carb.
That's all fine and good, but, how did a "hot" restart work.
I have a rebuilt nh, have not run it yet. Would it be worth the effort to check which jet it was rebuilt with? Can it be changed back to a proper needle and seat?
Easy fix - click here:
That Holley G looks awesome - of course it would run as good as it looks considering where it got fixed.
Royce - Thanks for reposting the thread link. Very good information.
Gary - The carbs look fantastic!
Royce, thank you!
Just got mine too.
Early 1915 Holly G rebuilt by Stan Howe.
Nice looking engine and carb set up!! Looks ready to go out for a ride.
Thanks guys. Here is another little head's up for those of you rebuilding carbs. Be careful about getting paint inside the bowl area if you are painting the body. Much of the new paint will dissolve in the new gas with a lot of Ethanol in it. It will come off in strings of slime that will get in the jets and plug them up. It is too light to sink, will float on top of the fuel and stick to the float, weighing it down. Powder coat -- at least in my experience -- does not dissolve in much of anything.
If you look at Gary's pictures, there is a lot of paint on the underside of the body.
If you want to paint the carb body with Rustoleum or Krylon or some rattle can paint, cut a hole in a card board box and stick the stem of the carb down in there so it seals up the edges. Paint away.
My T ran good on a tour last fall.
It started right up to go on the trailer to Florida.
It would not start to get off the trailer in Florida.
Finally, after beating on the carb a little, it started, ran awhile and quit.
More carb beating got it going again and things looked promising for a good Monday tour day, so I left the parking lot.
I went about five miles and it quit again. Draining a little gas from the carb and more beating got it going again.
This event was repeated about 15 times on a 40 mile tour, but I got back to the parking lot and replaced the carb with a friend's rebuilt spare carb.
When I got home and checked my carb, I found it had a GroseJet installed that was stuck solid shut and could not be blown through.
The jet was free and appeared to work good after 10 minutes in my ultra-sonic clock cleaner.
I did not know it was in there and the carb had been working good last year.
I'm hesitant to try another one, but the new "original" needle valve does not shut off the gas flow.
Good call Stan - maybe paint that plugged the Grose Jet! I carefully mask off the insides of the carb and do not paint anything that will see gas.
check Stan's postings about the "new" original style needles & you will understand why they leak, and wonder why are they made like that too!
James, I ordered ONE of the new, done right NH inlet sets from Langs on my order yesterday, we'll see if it is any different than the last dozen I got. I have far better luck cleaning up old ones than I do with the new ones, it takes me about as long to work over one of the new ones as it does to make one. I bought a new Sherline lathe to set up to do nothing but regrind tips. I do very few NH's but do a lot of others. Haven't had time to set it up like I want it yet. The new ones at $15 a pop should work without problems but none I have found do. They are a PIA.
Talking about that and at the risk of sounding like I'm complaining, which I think I am, I find it hard to believe they have no Holley G gasket sets or bowl gaskets. Just got the invoice.
Try again somewhere else I guess.
Stan, where the new float needle valves better a couple years ago? I've installed 3 of them and have not had any problems.
Yes. Several years ago somebody was having them made that had ground tips of excellent quality. The last ones I got were not ground, they looked to have been made on a form cutter and were from softer material.