Removal of Starter and Bendix as One Unit

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Removal of Starter and Bendix as One Unit
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Davey Jules on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 09:01 am:

I recently changed my transmission bands, old design non-detachable ears.

I've read several posts on this forum that say that the starter and Bendix must be removed separately in order to avoid expensive damage to the magneto field coil.

The Ford Service Manual, 513, describes a technique of raising the front end of the transmission cover and inserting a 2" block of wood between the cover and crankcase to permit removal of the starter and Bendix as one unit.

No mention is made to the magneto. This technique sounds dangerous; I almost tried it, as it was in the book, but decided it was easy enough just to remove the Bendix.

Has anyone had success with the this?

Davey


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 09:22 am:

I haven't tried that method, but I don't think re-sealing the hogshead would be any easier than removing the Bendix.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 09:42 am:

Sure that will work but you said it yourself: easier to remove the Bendix. Plus as stated there's the additional problem of re-sealing the cover. Unless, for some reason the drive couldn't be removed, there's no good reason to do this.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Coiro on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 10:14 am:

It's not difficult to remove the Bendix before dismounting the starter from the engine. _If I, the know-nothing newbie, can do it, so can anybody. _Just photograph each step with your cellphone. _I retouched some old photos here that you might find helpful. _Notice that the "Bendix Head Spring-Screw" is longer than the "Shaft Spring-Screw" and that it (the "Bendix Head Spring-Screw") is screwed into the hole furthest from the engine:







Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Davey Jules on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 10:58 am:

Why do you think the manual suggests this?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 12:15 pm:

The only reason I can see for doing it as the manual suggests would be if you are planning to remove the hogs head anyway. Otherwise taking out all those bolts holding the hogs head and disturbing the gaskets and seals around the the hogs head would not be worth it. The only difficult part of removing and replacing the bendix cover is the screws behind the pedals. But with patience they can be installed easily with a little parctice.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Coiro on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 12:46 pm:

Norman is so right. _It's difficult to work with the Bendix cover screws behind the pedals. _While any long-shaft screwdriver can get the screws out, putting them back in is another story. _But that obstacle is overcome by using the right tool for the job:










Also known sometimes as an "electrician's screwdriver," you can pick one up almost anywhere, including Home Depot and Harbor Freight.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 02:10 pm:

Or just don't remove the innermost screw for the bendix cover - at least my cover is slotted, so the cover can be slided out and put back with that screw with worst access just loosened some turns.

Remember it's an odd size so you don't want to loose any of them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 02:34 pm:

Also remember that the hole in the bendix cover side of the hogshead is large and every one of those bendix cover screws is factory TRAINED to know how to bounce off anything nearby and get through that hole into the motor. They also can make a turn in mid air and get into that hole without hitting anything at all. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Bohlen, Severn MD on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 03:25 pm:

John,

You sound like the unfortunate voice of experience.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 03:27 pm:

When i replaced my starter bendix it was very easy and took maybe 20 minutes. That was without the body mounted so it would take a little longer working around the firewall and pedals. Just my experience TIM


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 03:40 pm:

John,

It's those pesky magnets inside the hogshead that suck those screws right in!


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