I know this is not specifically T-related but my garage door just started acting up. On the way up is is "missing" and doesn't go up all the way, and it makes loud popping noises that indicate the "miss" of some sort. Then on the way down it wants to keep going when it reaches the bottom.
As one of the pictures shows, the gears are fine. The picture of where the chain is going around the top of the unit is where the problem is coming from.
Any help is greatly appreciated...and as long as you know for sure, feel free to tell me this unit has lived a good life and it's time to move on. But I would love to DIY it. Thanks.
It sounds like the gear mechanism is going out, and the stop signal is malfunctioning. My recommendation is to get an overhead door company to look at it. I think the drive needs to be replaced. Malfunction of this sort are from age, or the door not being balanced. Sometimes it is best to just get professional help on these.
There should be a 2 way stop switch mounted above the motor, close to the underside of the chain, that works both ways. The chain should have a trip mounted on the chain at a certain point that trips the stop switch to stop the motor at the precise moment it is open all the way and, on the other side, as the door is going down, another trip on the chain that trips the stop switch to stop the door when it reaches the bottom. I know this because I had to work on my garage door last week for the same reason.
Turns out that the plastic 2 way stop switch tripper on the downside broke off, causing the entire tripping piece to drop down into the motor casing. I took off the motor cover and retrieved the plastic tripper and the broken off piece and glued the broken piece back on with epoxy, reinforcing it with a piece of wire. After letting it cure, I snapped the tripper back in place and recalibrated the door. Works perfectly now but I had to learn all this as I went along. Good luck. Jim Patrick
Looks like the chain is wearing into the body and the individual links are binding now. It's work out. It's an opportunity to upgrade ... mebbe get one that will work from yer cellphone
Hmm, the outside looks nice & stout, metal everywhere, but inside, it's all plastic!! I dunno, that just doesn't seem like good engineering. Most modern units use some sort of logic circuit to turn them off, at least the one I had at my "in town" house did, I don't remember having to set 'Up" or "Down" and the only tricky part was the electric eye to detect stuff in the doorway. Come to think of it, if it hit something before going all the way down, it would automatically stop.
My highly educated input is that it is broken!
When something is Broken it can either be fixed or replaced.
Fixed means that you spend a small amount of money and a lot of time then have to do it again in a few years.
Replaced means that you spend a lot of money and have to replace it again in a few years.
Your open is history, I am with Fred, off it.
I recommend getting one of the screw drive types ( OK guys get the laughing over). They last a long time, take less maintenance, very smooth and quiet.
If that is a Linear opener the splines on the shaft are odd shaped . I have seen them fail. My experiences have lead me to use chamberlain openers.
Disconnect the door lift hook from the drive. Most have a "power loss" release. Then see if the door will raise and lower a full cycle manually.
A word of advise; Do NOT mess with the counter balance spring on your own. One slip and it can take off an arm or leave a nasty gash before you even know what happened. You'll be standing there looking at a pool of blood wondering where that came from.
I had a Sears unit one time where the up limit and the down limit were set as a PTO (power take off) type set up off of the main sprocket.if the sprocket skipped a tooth with the chain, it was now out of sync!
Get a new one. I just had a new double wide door opener installed and yes it can be operated by a smart phone and yes you can get a notification each time it opens and closes by the regular button. Why? I don't know but it does
Well this has been fun! Haha. Thanks everyone for your input. It is a Linear. It goes up and down fine when released from the motor. This one lasted almost 10 years so hopefully the new one will do as well. Jim...you are a true Model T tinkerer. That's amazing. I want one that works with my phone but I have to check with corporate (wife) if it's in the budget.
I think I'll cut my losses even IF it is possible to fix it. The time doesn't seem worth it...it will take away from my T driving and tinkering time.
Thanks again all!
Our Chamberlain opener (sure looks like yours) went kaputz a couple of years ago. Cheaper to replace than rebuild.
Yep, all those garage doors use the same mechanism, whether Chamberlain, Sears, 1/2 horsepower, 1/4, 1/8...etc.etc...
The bushings at the top (under the chain drive) wear out. Here's a rebuild kit. Fits what seems to be every one out there. I've rebuilt 2 of 3 in my garage, and 1 of my Brother in laws. Takes about 45 minutes and 2 beers.. :-)
The left hand picture you posted IS the limit switch. The blade thing in the middle is the COMMON part of the switch. As the worm gear turns that thin metal blade device travels to the left til it hits the device that has the red wire connected to it. When you go the other direction it travels until the center connection blade thing hits the other contact that has the black wire connected to it that is further right in the picture. Those contact points move left or right based on the threaded white nylon shafts that are threaded through the contact blocks. Notice that the far right end of those threaded shafts have a hex head and screwdriver slot in them. That is what you turn to move the contact blocks left or right to set the stop points for the door up and down limits. Those are the same as on my chamberlain unit and those are also sold as Liftmaster I think and also the same as most Sears units. They haven't changed much since about 1985. The limit mechanism is actually very reliable and they have worked on all 3 of my chamberlain openers for more than 25 years and are still OK. I think if you removed the chain you will find that the sprocket might be worn out or even have some teeth missing causing the chain to jump on the sprocket. Parts for Chamberlain openers are on ebay for cheap. I have replaced the nylon gears on all 3 of my openers and they last for a long time IF and I repeat IF you lube them up properly and with the right lube. Without it they last about 2 full up and down cycles and then are toast. Don't ask.
My bet is that the chain got really loose and wasn't lubed and finally skipped a tooth. Might be worth seeing what is under that chain as pictured on the right most picture that you posted.
Sure beats all the work of having to take it down. Usually they ca be repaired while still installed without too much work.
I guess Doug and I were typing at the same time. Actually Doug is incorrect - you can usually milk this job for half a six pack if you are helping a friend. Certainly more than 2 beers.
Thanks Josh. That is the best compliment one can receive. Just for the record, mine is a 25 year old "Raynor" system with all steel gears and a "Genie remote". Except for the plastic 2 way stop switch that broke, it was made to last and the reinforced repair I made to the downside trip blade left it stronger than it was when new in 1990. Since they don't make them like that anymore, I'd like to keep it and hopefully, It should last another 25 years until the circuit board burns up, at which time, I will spring for a new one...if I'm still alive. Jim Patrick
The reason most openers wear out like this one is a weak or misadjusted spring. As stated here not something you want to mess with unless you know what you're doing.
I have repaired many of these for homeowners... Usually after the "professionals" have installed a new opener. The spring should be set so that the door will ALMOST open on it's own. The door should be "tuned" so that the rollers glide smoothly on the tracks with no binding. Good luck!