Hi,When adding oil will it fill the pan/recess's for the con rod dippers?
Also,do you find that it takes a LONG time to get the proper oil level? I have the sight glass for oil level. Thank-You
It shouldn't take a long time. At least when you use the conventional petcocks. Maybe 10 or 15 seconds. I think that the hole in the base of the sight glass is purposely made very small so when going up a hill, when the oil rushes back, it doesn't surge into the glass and leak out the vent hole.
Yes, when adding oil it will most likely fill the pan troughs. The internal oil line should also help with that when running.
If you add oil into the front oil fill, yes, it will flow into the pan dippers. Some folks raise the front of the car about 6 inches when draining the old oil out to ensure that the old oil flows out of the dippers. Be sure to lower the car back down before adding the fresh oil!
It does take a couple of minutes for the oil to flow back and fill the rear sump. I just open the upper petcock and add 1 gallon of oil. Usually, this brings the final oil level just about even with the upper petcock without any overflow. Be sure to close the upper petcock before driving the car!
The sight glass I got about 30 years ago reads very quickly.
Maybe the newer ones are like Jerry wrote, and they have a small inlet to the glass tube to slow the loss of oil in case the glass tube breaks.
One sure way to eliminate guesswork in how much oil is enough, but not overfilled; After draining and re-installing the drain plug, I pour in an entire 5 quart jug (which is the size most multi-quart jugs are sold in). Once the oil is poured, I put a pan under and open the top petcock. An hour later I close the top petcock and it's good to go.
One of the problems with some repro oil sight glass is that they seal so well oil does not flow up into the glass as the air trapped above the oil has no where to go. A extreme tiny hole drilled vertically through the upper cap will make the oil level rise and fall in the glass rather quickly. By small hole I am talking about a drill bit usually used for model train building! For those that are fearful that the glass might break while driving it can be replaced with clear plastic tubing. Though the oil can get mighty hot in the Summer I've used plastic tubing for 12 years now on one Model T sight glass and plan to finally replace it in late Spring.
In addition to what Michael P. said, there's another problem with relying on a sight glass. If the hole gets plugged once there's oil in it, it may hold the oil and give a false indication that there's plenty of oil when there isn't. Just like when you add oil and the air can't get out, this is the reverse problem. The air can't get in, so it holds the oil. Seems like there was a thread about this some time ago and someone fried an engine.....
I rigged up a sight glass using some vinyl tubing and a plastic elbow. The tubing is open at the top, so no issues with an orifice plugging up. The tubing fits onto the end of the lower petcock. I only open the petcock to check the oil level, then I close it for running/driving. No chance for leakage due to broken glass (as long as I remember to close the petcock after checking the oil level).
Because I only put about 600 miles on my Model T per driving season, it only needs one oil change per year and so, I can afford to make that a part of the elaborate, ceremonial procedure I use to bring the old gal out of her winter hibernation. _Such stuff includes relaxing, therapeutic tasks like greasing the chassis, cleaning and lubing the timer, bringing the tire inflation up to spec, washing, polishing the brass and, you know, all that familiar jazz.
Because the engine has no oil filter and because I use a detergent oil, it makes sense to get as much of the old, dirty oil out of the engine as possible, so after I pull the plug and the oil eventually stops dripping out, I'll jack up the front end and pour in a quart of a mixture of fresh oil and Marvel Mystery Oil and let that flow downhill through the little con-rod bulges and "rinse" them out (The Ford manual specifies kerosene for this rinsing operation, but I prefer to keep flammables to a minimum, thence the 50/50 mix of motor-oil and MMO). _When that finishes draining out of the engine, I'll un-jack the front of the car and screw in the oil plug. _Then I remove the little access panel from the top of the transmission and pour three quarts of oil in over the bands and mechanical guts in there. _Finally, I button it back up, open the top petcock and slowly pour the fourth quart of motor oil in through the front of the engine and when the top petcock starts dripping oil, I know it's time to stop pouring.
By the way, because tap-water contains all kinds of lime and stuff that eventually solidifies as crusty deposits, I don't put that in my radiator, but instead use a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and just add distilled water to that as needed over the driving season. _I leave the radiator empty over the winter as there's no advantage to discovering whether I've diluted the anti-freeze to the point where it will freeze.
This APCO oil sight gauge is my favorite that I can see in the dark. A small cork float inside pushes the white ball into the air. Looks pretty dangerous to have hanging off a Model T but you only live once!
I use one of those cast iron from apco and I love it. I was running the glass tube and it worked great. I always worried about a rock hitting it and breaking the glass. Probably one in a million but I do feel safer with the cast iron period accessory.
Thank- You for all the responses!!!! I will check out that sight gauge
I've never checked this out, but, does raising the front of the car six inches really get much more oil out the "dips"? I can't see that the small angle change would make much difference. JMHO. Dave
David, Jacking the T up would be a simple experiment on the next oil change. Drain the oil. Then Jack the front up and measure how much more comes out. The pan dips are pretty shallow so any incline from the front would drain them pretty well I would imagine.
Steve Jelf showed a picture w/a piece of vinyl tubing in a U shape, connected from the lower to the upper petcocks, just open both petcocks, check the oil level, close both petcocks, done, simple.
I'm on the road and don't have that picture with me, but a Google search should find it. This subject has come up before.
I have the old looking brass sight glass gauge. It looks old but i am not sure of its age. Cant wait to put it on.. Tim
Here is Steve's setup:
That just looks way too simple. I bet he even has one of those long rods with the special end for opening and closing the petcocks.
Yes, I made one of those too. Since this picture was taken I've added little hose clamps to keep the tube in place.
So what exactly is the oil level in the picture two posts above this one??????
The oil level is somewhat north of east west
I'd say it's "full". Although, to really take a "reading", both petcocks need to be opened, which they are not in the photo. I guess you could say, upon last check, it's full.