I'm building a Model T Engine stand - need advice. When looking at photos I notice some people are only using two bolts in the water inlet. This seems weak to me. Others are picking up two additional bolts where the block and oil pan meet. Any suggestions or advice appreciated.
I'm curious also, it's a simple basic design but there's someone out there that has built a better mouse trap (engine stand). Will keep an eye on this posting.
Lyndel, and John : Here is an example of an engine stand.
Mine is like Anthonie's, but with a difference. The same two bolts are used at the side water outlet, and these are done up tight. Where Anthonie has two bolts on the pan rail I have two 5/16" pegs only, no nuts on them. This makes it very easy to mount the motor on the stand.
When building the motor up again after an overhaul, the stand is rotated so that the pegs are at the top. It is a simple task to just hang the block on the pegs and then put in the side bolts. This also allows fitting the pan later in the build, while the motor is still upside down, without having to undo any bolts to fit it. The pan goes on over the pegs and can be aligned without any problems.
Those last two bolts go in when the motor is fully built up.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
There are adaptors for regular engine stands available from the vendors, but I opted for an even cheaper solution, using head bolts with pieces of pipe as distances for the water inlet fastening holes, then bent pieces of threaded rod for the fastening to the oil pan bolt holes. No problems with this method on two engines.
Here's mine. I made it to slide so the pivot can be between #3 and #4 for the engine/transmission or between #2 and #3 for just the engine. It has two pegs at the bottom, not bolts, so you can remove or install the pan with the engine on the stand.
I bought the engine adapter from one of the T suppliers. Its pretty simple and anyone with a welder and some scrap metal could make a adapter but i dont have those skills. Tim
here is a picture of mine
I put this worm drive on mine to make it easier to rotate when the transmission is hanging on the end.
I recognize the worm box; Princess Auto (our equivalent of Harbour Freight)
You're right Les, it's a PA box but I bought it at the Red Deer swap meet a few years ago, new, about 1/3 the price.
All great ideas but specially liked KEN from Alberta. I was thinking more on the floor design w/casters. I'm going to make up a couple/few in the very near future.Thank you for all for your help and please keep the ideas coming !!!
Les's looks sturdy and well made, so does Ken from Alberta, please PM me guys with some measurements, NICE STUFF guys........
Les Schubert, can you post measurements on your mounting plate? I need to build one for my stand. Thanks.
I had used an OTC "Revolver" engine stand on a job, working on a Cat 3406 engine, and liked the idea so I decided to add a gear drive to my engine stand.
NAPA also sell a lighter weight version: http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NLE7915070
Another nice thing about the worm drive is that it stays at whatever position it's at w/out having to put a locking pin in.
This works good for engine storage.
A few years back there was a unique 2 or 3 way gimballed model T engine stand for sale on the SW Michigan Craig's List. Should have bought it. Anyone remember it?