Just trying to justified buying it. We're to store it would be a different issue,
I looking at a rolling chassis, "it a rolling frame with wheels, motor and trans, rear axle, steering column, fire wall, radiator, has what looks like #666 headlights, side lights. Front fenders, and side foot boards and gas tank, it was too dark to see far back if it had rear fenders, But would need full rehab.. I haven't talk price yet, just don't want to insult someone or get taken as well.. Wondering a ball park price..
Well I just bought a good 1914 block last year for $750 (December 1913 date).
An aluminum hogshead is worth $125 if it is not cracked or missing any ears.
A set of lettered pedals is worth $125
A good 1914 front hub, pre - speedometer, goes for $100 - $150.
Needle nose oil pan is hard to find in good shape. If usable without repairs it will bring $500.
Aluminum handle crank sells for $75. Steel handle crank used in later 1914 not worth much.
A good 1914 front hub machined for speedometer goes for about the same price.
12 rivet 1913 - 14 rear axle housings go for $100 apiece.
A good two piece 1914 drive shaft is a $300 item if you can find one for sale.
E&J 66 or 666 or 656 lamps regularly sell on eBay for $500 each if they are nearly perfect.
Brown or Victor or E&J or Corcoran kerosene lamps sell anywhere from $200 for a dented cowl lamp to $500 for a perfect tail lamp.
seen a '14 chassis, a while back, asking price was $5000. Thought it was a bit much.
Something that has helped me a lot is a loft. If you have a two car garage for the modern cars or even the old cars. You can put a loft at the end of the garage high enough so hood of the drivable cars fit under the loft (allow a little extra room incase the next car or truck you want to purchase is higher.) Dismantle the chassis and put it all up on the loft and you have not used any floor space. Keeping the engine and transmission on the floor allows you to build a lighter loft but takes up a little more floor space. But if you park a car on each side of the engine it works ok. And the fenders, running boards, steering gear and other lighter parts can easily fit in an attic.
Two of the steel adjustable shelving units like the Edsal 72 x 72 x 24 inch (available from Walmart, etc. see: http://www.walmart.com/ip/21685759?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227016992894&wl 0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40873631552&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78766299272&veh=sem ) make it easy to build a loft. If your garage does not have room for them and the cars -- then using 2 x 4 s or 4 x 4 s will also work and take up less floor space. But they are harder to adjust later.
Hap l9l5 cut off
The value on a "1914" Chassis can vary anywhere from under $500 to that $5000 mentioned depending on the actual year and real condition of all parts.
I have seen several "1914" chassis for sale over the years that were nothing but a '20s chassis in poor condition with a home-made plywood firewall and useless/bad '15ish radiator and fenders.
I hate to say it (because I am broke and there are pieces I still want to get), but Royce's prices are right on the mark for proper and nice parts. Then again, a few years ago, at Bakersfield swap meet, I bought the narrow nose pan I am putting in my '15 for under $30. Of course, it has taken quite a bit of repair to make it near usable. As I said. It all comes down to actual vintage, and condition.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I didn't think of the engine number. I'm printing it out to take it with me.. And I'm going to study the 14 frame a bit. I think I'll be within the range. Knowing that I'm going to tear it down.. I think it's always the best way to know what you really have. And Let's you address the unseen..