So I though I would do a few jobs whilst the weather is not quite good enough here in the UK, one was to have a look at the wring as much was fragile and needs replacing: One of the off ball things is the amp meter has never registered a positive charge but is charging. I was converted to 12 volts a number of years ago, negative earth runs on mag fine!
I wanted some advise on what someone has done on the back of the ignition switch, I have uploaded a pic.
So it looks from my wiring book that someone has crudely connected the headlights and tail light together, I can sort of understand why they might do that.
What I am trying to understand is the wires to the amp meter, so my diagram has a wire from the back of the switch in yellow which it is (the one with the dodgy pva tape around).
The second side confuses me slightly, would be yellow with black tracer, it looks black with yellow tracer, should that wire run to the back of the switch first then branch off to the amp meter?
Don't worry too much about what anyone has done there. You need a new wiring harness and ammeter and they need to be installed per the correct wiring schematic. Don't let some past tinkering get you distracted.
Agree, get new wiring harness and wire per manual. That existing wiring is old, frayed and seems contacts at terminals on the switch could be touching each other.
Below switch plate is a '26-'27 but similar wiring is used with your earlier plate and ammeter.
Complete diagram for wiring car or truck.
thanks for this the new wiring is the way to go, is there any way I can easily check if the amp meter works correctly?, the generator is giving out a charge, but not registering? the amp meter will show the draw though!
Maybe my eyes are failing but I cannot see any connections on the ammeter, indeed I am not sure I can see the ammeter. The ammeter will have two connections on the rear. To me it looks like the two wires that should connect to the ammeter are joined together.
Like the others I would recommend a new wire harness and ammeter.
Until your wiring is replaced, there is no telling what your ammeter may or may not register.
I don't know of any easily done bench test for it. Maybe others do?
Place meter in series with a battery and headlamp bulb. Knowing bulb wattage and battery voltage gives info to make a crude check of function, reversing polarity gives opposite reading. respectfully, jb
Tony, u need to get some glasses or a magnifying glass.
Looks like one wire goes from the amp. meter, on bat. post and the other wire goes, from the amp meter to the ground side of the starter switch
TT- this is probably a suggestion the you already know and have already performed but just in case- disconnect the wire from the mag post while fooling around with the switch wiring.
Reason- if DC voltage accidently makes it to the magnets you will lose power from the magneto and the magnets will need to be re-magnetized.
Hi John, that's a good call 😀
Will work through the wiring pretty sure much is original so in poor condition will work through .....
The two ammeter terminals are replaced with a loose nut and screw in TT's diagram.
James I had removed the amp meter at that moment !! The two wires and screw probably do as good as job!
Well Richard I guess when the owner indicates he has joined the two wires together for the photo, my eye is not so bad.....
My advice to replace the wire loom and ammeter stands.
(Message edited by Tony_bowker on April 12, 2016)
Here is what I would do. E-bay is loaded with these switches all the time. Do you wish to keep the tab type switch back, or get a pin type, which is the one I prefer. We make both types, and they are available from Langs. Do as you wish, but good originals are not impossible to find.
I'll pick one up, as over in the uk prices are a little steeper, but my dad is out in the states in a couple of weeks and ask him bring one back😀 I would order from Langs etc, but have to pay uk duty where as my dad can bring back a gift.