Well, We have at least some people who do not have a very good opinion of our club, our members, or all the expertise accumulated by all it members over the many years. During my visits to Dave's Radiator Shop in Provo, Ut, I had some conversations about the radiators from my 24 Roadster and the 26 Tudor. They told me that one of the radiators was factory. As I was told by you members that neither were factory, I had a discussion about the radiators and mentioned that the Model Ters told me that neither was factory. The relationship with them went down hill from there. On the second visit to pickup the radiators, on the guys there made two insulting comments to me as though I was very stupid. I got into a bit of a heated back and forth but never caught on what was happening. I just happened to stop by a third time to drop off some printed material from the forum about all your opinions about my radiators. It was then that the two guys in the shop threw a few F bombs at me and practically screamed at my that the people on the forum were just a bunch of kids that don't know anything about radiators or Model Ts. They indicated that they were the experts and why would I ever (F Bomb) listen to them? At that point I just walked away and left. They obviously think they know everything about every radiator ever produced and, us Model T people know nothing. (Radiator Gods) They were very pissed off. Needless to say I will never set foot in that place again.
OK, can you please tell me more about these radiators from these different angles and what do I do with the one that is missing the upper brackets
More important than whether it is a factory radiator, is whether it cools the car and doesn't leak. On older radiators the tubes tend to separate from the air fins and the connection between them gets corroded. The radiator might hold water and be clean inside, but doesn't conduct heat.
So a good radiator doesn't leak and cools the engine.
Rand, the first one you show with the slotted holes at the mountings is a narrow core item, probably only a two row flat tube replacement. If all else is equal, I would avoid using that one.
I like the stronger mountings and side plates on the other one.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Seems like there's 4-5 of this same thread scattered around so I can't believe your question remains unanswered. It's NOT a Ford radiator. It MAY fit but the top tank has an unusual support rod bracket. And the radiator itself looks too tall. It may be for a speedster like a Mercury where it needs to be taller. (Just a guess though.) You have no scale to your pictures to judge size.
Thanks Norm and Alan. It does Alan. I would hate to ruin anything by putting in a faulty radiator, having it overheat and cause other problems. Rand
Ken you are correct. There are other posts. I'm kind of new to this forum and have never asked if I should find the old posts and add to them rather that start new ones. Tell me and I will follow that protocol. Does posting to an old thread move it to the top again? Thanks. Sorry for the lack of detail. I'm getting old and forget a lot of stuff. The Radiators are 24" from the bottom to the top of the radiator where the neck is soldered on. I pretty know now what these are. I was just posting again mainly to find out what I need to do to repair the top mounts. Thanks, Rand
The one with the bent plate top rod support is prob aftermarket...
I have the exact same plate upper tank on a honeycomb on a '19. Actually I think it is better tech than the Ford with the Ford tapped rod. On this type 'tab', you set the firewall firm and then use a 2 nut set-up to push pull the top of the tank to where you want it without any scratches on the rod itself. A whole lot easier, even if probably aftermarket replacement.
Rand, It has been pretty well established that they are both aftermarket radiators for a model T. Now as to what to do with them. I agree with Allen about the radiator with the slotted holes being a low priced replacement radiator. Henry himself in 26-27 used the thin core radiators on his loss leader non starter cars. They did not cool good when new and I believe some dealers even changed them out when new to the better original style core radiators because of complaints from customers. With that said I would not use that radiator in a driver car. It is also the one with the broken off mount ears. So that should solve the broken ear problem. That radiator is mostly good for display in an accessory collection. Now the McCord radiator is probably a good radiator to use, depending on condition. They made good quality replacement radiators. As stated above look to see that the fins are still attached to the tubes. A few loose fins are OK. As long as the bulk of them are still attached, it should work OK. If you are not familiar with driving a T, you will need to learn good driving techniques. That will be to not have the carb too lean, and have the spark advance adjusted properly. A good general rule is more RPMs need more spark. Starting or idleing, needs less or a retarded spark to not kick back when starting. If at all possible try to find someone to give you a driving demonstration, or at least study the U-Tube videos dealing with driving a T or ask lots of questions here. One of the main causes of overheating is the driver.... Its not hard, but there is a small learning curve. After a little bit, it just comes natural. So have fun and be safe..... Donnie Brown ...
Rand, there is no protocol needed, post what you want, when you want.
Rand, there is no real protocol as to how to do posts. But I like to add to the original thread, as it keeps all the questions and answers together in one location dealing with a certain topic. In this case all your radiator questions will be in one thread. and if you want to ask about driving that could be another thread, ect.... Each time you or someone adds to a thread, it comes back to the top. Do not worry to much about the technique of posting. You will get used to the forum quickly. And 99 percent of us are glad to have someone new interested in Model Ts. But there is that 1 percent that is a "grumpy old fart" that chimes in from time to time. Try to just ignore him .
Thanks for all your answers so far. This really helps me. I am almost ready to bolt the body back on the frame. When I get to that point (This week hopefully) I will take some photos and post them. I have removed all the rust I could and then painted the whole body with POR 15. I still need to do some body work and assume I will need to dull up the finish on the POR 15 to bondo over it.(knowledge from other posts) I hope that's correct and I'm doing everything in the order it should be in. Rand
I'm glad to know that posting to a thread sends it back up to the top. That will help me a bunch. Thanks. Rand
Don't know if it's been answered above, (no time to read it al), but the missing brackets on the one radiator can be made, then pop riveted to the radiator sides. Use steel or stainless steel pop rivets.
I think the other part of this conversation is that radiator shops that will work on older stuff are slowly disappearing, and it might be worth your while to go back and smooth things over. You may be blessed with numerous radiator shops in your area, but my little town is down from 3 shops to 1 shop, and it too would have closed had the owner not had some family interested in keeping it going. The next closest radiator shop is 60 miles away.
I agree too that having a good radiator that cools is better than having a bad original radiator!
You do indeed have aftermarket radiators for the Ford. One is clearly marked with mfg. name to i.d. that one. McCord.
Other is more generic, usually aftermarket radiators used fancy cores to off set the Ford stock version, so the customers would go for their style. Most were hex core or waffle or zigzag core as those resisted affects of freezing that happened before the age of anti-freeze!
The Ford radiator has only these features! The new BrassWorks are made to this design of all the parts too.
Some aftermarket ones, there were so many can't track them today. And maybe one of yours has had the core changed to a tube style, that can be done to older radiators, as the fancy cores can't be fixed most times.
Those radiator shops guys used that colorful language as they had no clue, and most times the dumb of mine revert to dumb language.