Finally got time to take a short ride in the T. Started well, even started on the first hand crank once it was warm. Also ran on mag. Went about 1 block and It died. Could start it,but that's all. Seems to have lost all power. Once I started it I could pull the gas lever down and there was no increase in rpm's.
When running there is a hissing sound.
I've searched a bit on the site, but can't seem to find what I'm needing.
Sounds eerily similar to an issue Steve Jelf was having last year with his 1915 roadster. After much work, I believe he ended up buying a new gas tank.
Yes, I did. The old tank contained lots of fine dirt that went through the screen and into the carburetor. It also had a loose baffle clunking around inside, so instead of trying to fix it I just got a new tank. Problem solved.
Thanks Mark and Steve. I do remember reading something about that. I'm going to take a look at it on the weekend. I also don't have an inline filter on it. My first big mistake I think. Aren't these tanks a real beast to get out?
"I could pull the gas lever down and there was no increase in rpm s". Methinks it's a gas linkage problem. No cotter keys on either left or right gas linkages and they're not acting on the carby ?
Thanks George, you had me thinking, but I went and with my grandson moving the levers, I checked all the parts. All good.
You don't want an inline filter, except perhaps a glass bowl. With gravity feed and no fuel pump, a filter is likely to restrict the flow and make your fuel starvation worse.
1. Check fuel level. 2. Drain a little out of the sediment bowl. 3. Open valve at bottom of carburetor bowl. Gas should flow freely.
If gas does not flow freely, check for dirt in the fuel line or sediment bulb. If fuel does flow freely, could be a carburetor jet clogged.
If fuel system seems to be OK, check for spark at plugs and also for timing. Could be trouble with timer, coils or wiring. Lastly check the timing gear. It could have missing teeth especially if it is a fiber gear.
"Aren't these tanks a real beast to get out?"
They're NTB, just be sure to drain the gas out first to reduce weight. You can eyeball part of the tank from the filler hole.
New tanks are not available for '26'27s.
I would just hook up a secondary source of fuel (suitable container)connect up temporary and run the engine.
If it runs you know you have a fuel starvation problem pre the carb, if not you know its more involved.
You can also treat rusty tanks with sealers by favourite being POR15,(takes a few days) but guess depends on the cost of a tank in the US and if worried about original parts or not.
I haven't seen any 26-27 repro tanks. I don't think anyone makes them.
Is the choke operating OK? Decent amount of fuel in the tank? Open the carb bowl drain & check the flow. You'll know real quick if it's a flow problem. If it's slow you'll have to trace it back. As to in-line filters: I've used them forever BUT you must buy them from a lawn mower shop. They are designed for gravity feed systems. Standard fuel line sizes & priced about the same as auto parts stores.
I had a real problem with fuel starvation in my '27 roadster last year. The car had sat for a while and I eventually realized the problem was related to ethanol in the gasoline. Ended up pulling the "guts " from the sediment bowl and flushing the tank and then soaking some lacquer thinner in the tank and flushing that out. Seems OK now. Never used to be a problem until ethanol gas!! My preferred choice is now Shell premium. At this time no ethanol in it. Ethanol gas degrades quickly
Paul: Please make sure to disconnect the battery before working under the dash to remove the tank. respectfully, jb