I hit the wrong button so had to post this here. Don't hold back if you see a part that does not belong. I already know about a couple of things but this 13 looks pretty original to me. I am just asking the experts here to see if I am getting any better at spotting correct parts.
Fire away guys,
The brass hat spark plugs are about ten years too modern.
Wheels are later ones.
It has not a hint of a fan belt, coil box lid and valve covers :o) 1913 was the last year of full leather upholstery. Yours looks NICE. I'd try and preserve it..
Diff centre looks like the later type.
Allan from down under.
Can't really see clearly, but it almost looks like a later style rear axle housing and not the pumpkin style. Nice original interior seats and looks like a wooden coil box.
Looks pretty straight to me.
How is the sheet metal at the bottom of the back seat? How is the wood in the body?
Pedals show very little wear, so I would speculate it is pretty low mileage.
Electric headlights, so I'm going to guess the carbide generator is missing.
Except what was noted, looks mostly 1913.
Tires look like they'd need a little air and the spark intensifiers need to be hooked up.
: ^ )
Looks like a fairly unmolested '13. An early one if the wood coil box is original.
Casting date looks like 12-24-12
Hate it when spark plugs are missing
The brass needs polishing, otherwise it is great!
Needs new tires and head needs to be bolted on and spark plugs installed. That's all I can see. The top bows are not stacked straight, but maybe OK just not folded properly.
That car looks like it could be made into a very good one. Depends on what you want. You could get it mechanically good and leave body just as is. Or you could restore the whole car. Just depends on how much you want to spend and what you want out of it.
What's wrong with it? It's not in my garage!
Do you know anything of the story behind this car, Bob? Forgotten in a barn since 1923?
What happen to the paint? A restro that was never completed?
With a casting date 12-24-12 and other obvious 1913 features would make it a very early 1913 car. The car also appears to have the correct early 1913 KW coilbox for coils only used the the first half of the 1913 production year. If the original coils are included it would be nice as finding another set of these unique coils can be problematic, but no impossible. There is also a KW Master Vibrator installed to the left of the steering column. Not uncommon.
It would be interesting to see a photo of the bottom rear door jamb taken from the opposite side to see if it has the two body stringer reinforcements added later to prevent the rear part of the body sagging. I'll bet it does not, but they may have been added by a Branch or Dealer.
In my view this is really a neat car with most of the original basics intact. Much could be done to maintain it in its original condition and drive it.
Wasn't this car in a photo posted here or somewhere else recently? Great car. I wish mine was that good when I got it.
They are still out there. Wish I was a few years younger and it was out back in my garage. Really a nice 13. Brings back memories of finding cars like these back in the 60s.
Judging from the second photo, it looks as though someone installed a '14 type windshield support rod upside down on the driver's side.
The car has been on Craigslist for at least 6 months, maybe even closer to a year...
Where was it in Craig'S list and how much.
Where was it in Craig'S list and how much.
How soon we forget -
Well it looks like you guys noticed everything I knew and then some but it took longer than I thought for someone to post the link to the classified listing. I think it is a nice looking car and would like to see it stay in as found condition with a little work to fix some things and get it safe to drive but it looks like most of the paint is gone so bare metal is not good and this car needs to be painted. I have not seen it in person but the seats look good for 103 years old and it would be nice to preserve them. I think if you blow up the pictures you can see the head of 2 bolts in the rear body in front of the rear doors where the brace was installed to fix the sagging problems the 13's had. Also I knew the rear axle had been changed and the wheels are wrong but didn't see the spark plugs. The tires should hold air if new tubes are put in but may not be a good idea to pump them up past 32psi.
I was told this car sat in a barn for 50 years and when the man passed away his son sold it to the present seller about a year ago. The engine needs rebuilt but is all there and correct. It is not stuck but will not run without work. It needs work on or a replacement front fender and splash apron on the drivers side but the rest looks real solid. So knowing all this, I think it is worth the asking price but is it? I thought it would sell faster than it did unless the location hurt it. That 1910 that Royce bought was nice but this this is almost as correct without the 1957 paint job! (And no open valve engine )
Keep the comments coming, this is fun and interesting.
Bob - Agree with you about keeping the car in the "as found" condition, but rather than the car needing to be painted as you suggested, I can't help thinking of how great some of those "doodle bugs" look that I have been seeing on the forum lately. Seems like something like that boiled linseed oil mixture or whatever that those guys were talking about would be good. I sure like "the look" of the preserved "patina" on a couple of those doodle-bugs!
Interesting, if the lamps are original to the car it looks like it came with E&J headlamps and side lights but a Jno Brown tail lamp. Gosh a really nice car for restoration or just cleaned up & mechanically restored plus safety check with upgrades (rear axle rebuild). Please document you efforts with pictures to share. Thanks Bob for sharing.
If the motor is free, I'll bet a person could get it running without tearing it down.
The motor on my unrestored '17 roadster is extremely worn out but still runs.
I don't consider rust patina. Rust is just rust. If you have good, dry storage for that car, it won't get worse.
There's no way I'd paint that car! Once you do that, the rest of the car is going to look out of place.
I would wipe it down with a light oil and let it be! They're only original once.
Someone already tore the engine down some and replaced one piston with aluminum and it has nothing in the 2nd hole. It could be put back together and made to run but the valves are out and who knows what shape the lower end is in. I want to make it safe and run right and make it dependable so I can drive it on tour and not end up walking home. Without pulling the engine and getting inside it is hard to know what needs done so I am just thinking worst case is rebuild it and then get it back in and drive it. The front fender needs help so if I find one that matches the rest of the car and the side apron then it will remain as found with a good clean up and new tires, bronze thrust washers, ect. at least for now. How could you not just drive it as is! I am all for preserve it and drive it but if it is to far gone I will have no choice. I will know more when it follows me home soon. If it is beyond the preserve it stage, it will get done with the parts Ford made and without the use of "bondo" if at all possible. I was able to do this with my 25 truck so I know 100 years from now the body work will not cause any problems. Either way I will post updates and pictures along the way. I am no Steve Jelf but maybe a video or two if anyone wants to kill some time. I know I will be asking questions along the way.
That engine either needs rebuilding or replacing! And the front fender and splash apron also need repair or replacement.
But, you still have a good foundation for a restoration.
It would be nice to know who the body maker is. You can find out by looking under the front seat cushion. The body maker is the letter before the numbers, like H, F, or W. Your wood must me very good, as the rear doors are still level after 100 years.
Bob you could weld or rivet in patch panels on the rust holes and just leave it bare not even paint it up, I like the look of old time repairs.to me the worst is new shiney parts. I think your seats will come out nice with a few coats of veg. glyericne if hard soak it first before cracking