I just picked up a Van Norman Perfect-O boring bar at an auction. Where can I find parts, pieces and a manual for this machine? PK
Look on the net, lots of stuff for Van Norman, EBAY etc. Dave in Bellingham, WA
I have a Van Norman 777 and it works very well. I'll see if I can put together some info. I have the manual and I can probably recommend a source for tooling
I don't know how good it is but India make replica tooling and parts for some of the Van Norman boring machines.
The one I got is an old one. The serial number is 170-P. I don't know that the cutter inserts will interchange model to model but I need a set if inserts. I have found inserts on the net I just don't know enough yet to determine if they fit.
Les, the 777 looks close to mine so any info would be great. Thanks PK
Pat- Goodson has cutters and cutter blocks-- go to their website and I think you will find what you need. Most 777s use a cutter block that accepts a round body brazed carbide tool bit held in the cutter block with a set screw. Some VNs used a cutter block with the carbide brazed directly to the cutter block, but I don't know any details on those. Not much is available as far as spare parts, but unless its been beat to death, not much goes wrong with them. If its been sitting a long time, pull the motor off and clean out the gearbox and put new oil in it. If you got the tool box with it and its mostly complete you are in good shape.
anybody got a use for a 222 grinding& boring mach. if so give me a call. charley 417 394 2788
Yes Dan, I did get the tool box. It's mostly there but I'm missing the #2 set of centering shoes which are the ones for the model T bore size and the cutter blocks. There are some short round cutter bits in the tool kit as well as the micrometer. I'll go look around Goodson. Thanks PK.
That doesn't sound like a Van Norman number to me, Pat. Are you sure it's not a 777 or 777S?
These guys have all the tooling for Van Norman, excellent service and lots of knowledge. http://www.cavcosales.com/
The one I currently have is a 900; I've had a couple others over the years. I might still have a box of tools if I could find it in this mess. I've bought tooling at a couple auctions over the years because whoever set up the auction wasn't smart enough to recognize the tools that went with the bar. Did you get the little red box???
Ah, you answered Dan before I got off the phone and back to the post.
The serial number and the model number are different. Look for a model number and I'll bet you have a 777, 900, 900S, etc.
I'll look again Stan. All that is on the name plate number wise is the serial number stamp. I'll go out to the shop and take a few pictures and post them. That may help you guys pin this thing down. I'll be back. PK
Here are the pics.
Forgot the name plate.
Looks like a 900S to me but I'm not expert. Send the pics to Van Norman and they can tell you.
Thanks Stan, I'll give them a holler. PK
Van Normans were good Machines.
What you have to watch for is,
1. If the block surface is flat and no protrusions on the block surface.
2. That the block hasn't been surfaced on a surface machine, that you pushed the block across a surface grinding wheel, and most likely a wore one so now the top of the surface is now off of the crank center line.
The last and most important, that the bottom of the cylinder boring machine is true to the Quill.
I have seen them slid across blocks, large metal tables, and even across dirty concrete floors with a rope used to pull it , they should be checked for being true by a machine builder.
Cylinders bored off a crank center line is like using rods that are out of alignment, but tuff to find.
Great info, thanks Herm.
That looks like the one I have. I have the manual. will check if they are the same I can get you a copy of the manual.
looks a lot like the one we had at college (this would have been around 1974 or '75). We were taught to center the bore at the top, if the ridge was still present, or at the bottom where the wear would be least. Also to check that the distances from tool post to cylinder sides were close to similar in case the top of the block was not machined square to the bore. And yes, it is possible to bore off-center of the crank, but they have been in use for decades, however the modern boring machines that one puts the block into are easier to get everything right--but much more expensive to acquire!