Well after quietly reading these forums for years and tinkering with parts and a complete basket case touring car, I can finally say the 1921 Model T Ford depot hack my grandfather lovingly restored is now mine. He bought the car as a running gear and restore it nearly 30 years ago to the condition you see today. He passed away shortly after finishing the car which then left the family briefly. My aunt and uncle bought it back and had it transported to Flordia in 1996. The car sat inoperable in there garage for almost 20 years due to fuel issues. In September she decided it was time to part with it. So we made a deal and the car came back home to Ohio where it spent the winter being repaired in the same garage grandpa built it in. Now as the first season approaches and I start taking it out more I'm looking for any advice, tips, and tricks that you guys can provide a 28 year old with. I've replaced all the tire tubes, changed the engine oil and flushed the radiator, rebuilt the carb and generator, and replaced the hoses and fuel lines. My biggest concern now is what kind of gas do I use ? I have no idea what type of valves he used so do I need lead additive ? I'm open to all input here.
Wow, what an odyssey! Congratulations for retrieving your Grandfather's car.
As to the gas; just regular. During the time that Model T was produced gasoline did not contain lead, so today's unleaded fuel is fine. When you replaced the fuel line did you clean out the sediment bulb under the fuel tank? From the sound of all of your work, you and the car should be rarin' to go! Good luck with your project. Bill
Thanks Bill, the fuel tank was badly varnished so I replaced it and the sediment bulb (shut off handle was broken) at a later point I may try and redo the original tank. The car is 99% original parts. Does anyone have an idea what a bare chassis would have cost in August 1921 and is there a way to identify the body designer. He had the body built from plans that were originally used. Here's how the car made the trip home.
Early in the 1921 model year (September 22, 1920) the price of a chassis was set at $360. On June 7, 1921, with the 1921 model year winding down, the chassis price dropped to $245.
Hi Robert, I think you have a Syverson body kit out of Lake Zurich, Il. there. If you look at my profile picture, they're the same basic bodies, I altered mine for my own reasons. The body tag on mine is brass and is mounted on the front seat heel panel facing the coil box. My chassis is a 1922 and I've been told that the chassis was sold new for $250 in 1922, not what I paid for it. When I bought mine the body was in pieces floating all over a collapsed airplane hanger, when my friend and I got it home, we didn't have all the pieces, so we ended up making many of them, thank God my friend is closet cabinet maker, he cut the trees down, rough sawed the trees into boards, dried them for a year, milled them into dimentional lumber and fit the pieces together into what I have now, I so very grateful I have this person in my life.
I just noticed my mistake above, and editing has expired so I can't change it. That June 7 price should be $345.
Welcome to the affliction Robert, and of course, start saving for the next one! You can't have just one! Nice looking hack. So nice to see someone young with a passion for these fantastic vintage cars.
Tell your friend they have these places called "lumber stores" where you can buy the wood without all the tree
cutting and drying and waiting a year ! They often sell hammers and nails and such so I guy doesn't have to
make his own steel and tools too !
Though I'm able to avoid ethanol-tainted gasoline, has anyone had any undesirable effects from the ethanol?
What county are you in? There are lots of T guys (including myself) and clubs in Ohio. Congratulations on a great looking Hack.
I'm located in Jefferson County on the Ohio WV border, a small town called Bloomingdale Ohio. Thanks !!
I ran E-85 for year just to prove it could be done. Note I said "ran" not fill it up and let it sit for a year. But if you drive it somewhat regularly, E-10 is not going to hurt a thing unless you have a cork float in the carb. E-85 was a pain to start in cold weather. Had to preheat the manifold with a torch.
U don't live near Pike Co. Where all those people were murdered, do u?
I run whatever flavor of regular happens to be available when I need gas. It's almost always E-10 stuff. Works fine in both my stock Coupe and not stock speedster. That stuff sits in the tanks over the winter and the cars have never failed to start in the spring after usually a 4 month hiatus. No cork floats but no problems either.
Richard Wolfe, no sir that was on the west side of the state I'm on the east side, about 45 mins west of Pittsburgh PA.