I have a 27 model t i just bought and it has auotlite plugs in it and they leak around the threads when the engine is running. The two piece plugs that was in it before i bought it didn't leak around them at all. The guy threw them away so, i have no reference to but new plugs. My question is what is the best brand to buy at a local parts store until i buy a new set of old style champions from langs?? Tim
First, it isn't likely the small leak through the treads would actually do much harm - think about all the compression that leaks by the piston rings, they even have gaps
But if you want to stop the leak at once, try wrap the treads with a little tin foil and fasten the plugs.
Champion 425 from OReilly's Auto Parts, but get ready for the price!
Motorcraft seem to work pretty good. I've never cared too much for Autolite. They seem to leak quite a bit in the area where the ceramic or porcelain or whatever it is goes into the metal part of the plug.
Edison 14s work well if you can find them....
HE THREW THEM AWAY???!!!!!
Goes to show that some folks just don't know what stuff is worth. The plug were at least good for parts, if the electrodes were wore down (probably weren't though).
Should have dropped the sales price $100!!! (yeah, I'm a cheapskate always looking for a reason to deal)
PS, Welcome to "The Affliction" -- it's all downhill from here! (unless you live at the bottom of a hill. . . . )
Nice car Tim!
For what its worth, I've used Autolites and Motorcrafts and never had a problem with either.
I did have leaks once, same place as you, and fixed it by wrapping some PTFE plumbers tape on the top half of the threads, then putting a bit of Copper anti seize grease (coppaslip) on the threads. Worked fine, and I haven't had leaks since.
Hope this helps
Thanks Justin. David, the man said I could have the plugs and when I picked up the car he said had thrown the 2 piece plugs in the trash. This after the money changed hands!! Of course.. Good news is the car seems decent. The vaporizer set up is way rich. That's why it need plugs. I just put the NH on it and need to put a new set of plugs in until I make sure it all runs good. I will put the new champion two piece plugs in then. I have to work for the next 12 days straight..So nothing will be done for a few days.Tim
Champion 425's at summit racing 27 bucks and change. O reallys does not offer them anymore or so they told me. KGB
Keith I didn't know summit had them but I will order them in the morning, they might just get here Saturday. Thanks for the Tip. Tim
Tim, the picture summit shows is not a 425 but as they say a representation of it, description matches though. KGB
Keith is that a one piece or two piece plug?? Thanks Tim
The 425 is a two piece just like the original. KGB
I guess you could say four piece with threads, porcelain, nut and gasket.:-} KGB
I bought my Champion X plugs at NAPA. They were just over $21.00 each. When you order, you need to be sure they know you want the X plugs not the 14mm plugs that seem to have the same part number.
Thanks that's what I am looking for thanks for the advice. Tim
The trouble with the new X plugs is the insulators do not have the same quality of porcelain the OLD old plugs had.
That goes for every plug on the market today.
I paid between $22.50-$25.00 for genuine NOS Champion X plugs.
I consider them worth every cent.
I have never had any luck whatsoever with Autolite plugs.
I run Champion 25s. Seems to be a solid, reliable plug, and about a third the price of the Champion Xs. Looks a bit more correct than the Motorcraft and Autolite plugs, too!
Mister Thrifty would run the cheap modern plugs until finding original Champion X or other old timers at a swap meet for a fraction of what the new ones cost. Old brass cap X's would be correct for your 27, and they're plentiful and cheap.
I know it sounds unlikely, but when I replaced my Motorcraft F11 plugs with Champion X plugs (which you'd think come from Krypton by the way people talk), my engine lost a lot of power and ran rough.
I shrugged off the mild disappointment, re-installed the Motorcraft plugs and disguised them with the shiny brass thumb-nuts that Lang's sells. _Good enough.
If you're not going to be judged you could put 14mm inserts in and run modern plugs. They are available in many heat ranges and you can run a hotter plug in number one if it's rich. If one cylinder is pumping oil you can run a really hot plug in that hole too. It works for me and if you want to go stock then simply remove the insert and put in a Madam X.
I have used NGK Autolite, and Champions over the years and have the best luck with champions because of their widespread availability.
I use the copper plus model RN--YC ranging through the very cold 4 to 6-7-8-9-10-11-12-14 to the hottest 16. You can really fine tune your engine with them but not all stores have the hot ones on the end and the cold ones at the other end. They usually only offer from 10 to 14, but who needs cold plugs?
These plugs cost $2.60 each at list price and can be purchased cheaper in large quantities at discount stores. You can buy all 20 plugs in the usual heat ranges from 10 to 14 for $52.00 plus tax and that's list price if you buy one at a time. There is no excuse for not having pink plugs.
Don't throw away old plugs. You can improve the spark by draw filing the side electrode to a clean rectangle and squaring up the end. Then file the center electrode true flat. If it looks like a used pencil eraser you need to square every thing up. Then re-gap the plug. When I was teaching Auto Shop we had a spark plug tester. We would put a worn out sparkplug in it and turn on the juice. We added pressure and most would fail at about 60 pounds. I would have the students file the electrodes and they would continue firing at 150 pounds.
I have a header on #22 with a three and a half inch open tube. I run #44 jets in the Stromberg 97 when racing with the open pipe and use #40 jets when I insert the resonator to run on the street. When racing at full throttle I shift into overdrive (3 to 1) gears at 64 miles an hour. It runs a little rich so I run #16 plugs to burn off the soot. With the resonator I run #12's because it runs leaner due to the added back pressure.
NGK's range from cold 10-9-8-7-6- to hot 5
Autolite and Bosch also sell heat ranges in that thread reach.
I found one of my insulators is loose on my X plug. I am guessing the copper gasket is shot. Need to pull it apart and check it out.
Recently I found thin copper crush washers that worked great in antique champion plus at a store specializing in industrial hose fittings. They couldn't give me a serial number .... just had them loose in a box.
I suspect every engine is different depending on what has been done to the engine and the type of ignition you have. My engine has been completely rebuilt with a Stipe 280 and originally a Z head ( now a Prus head). I initially tried a new set of Champion 425 plugs. Not impressed. Switched to a vintage set of Varcon plugs. Better but not great. Lastly I switched to Champion 25's. Starts and runs much better. I'd like to find set of original Champion X plugs to run just for comparison, but haven't had any luck finding any decent ones. When I do, I'll stick those in and try them as well.
I have used old Champion X's, Champion A25's (the worst ones I've ever used), Auto-lite and Motorcraft F-11's. The best I've used are the Motorcraft. I've never had an issue with them missing under load as the other ones have. I've used them in 7 different Model T's and other than the Champion skipping I've never noticed any difference in performance between them. The engines have ranged from worn out to fresh rebuilds with high comp. head.
I found an NOS set of Firestone Pulonium plugs on eBay, that came in a lot of 35 Model T plugs other I paid $20 plus shipping for. These work really well. If you watch eBay you can get all sorts of good old stock plugs for $1 - $5 apiece.
When I took this picture years ago I didn't have a really matching set, but since then I've picked up a few more at swap meets, so I may now. One of these days I'll try them out.