25 t with a swivel top carb. Installing a carb control rod this morning and when running the rod through the hole in the dash down through the firewall it (the rod) contacts the aft manifold bolt ever so slightly but enough to create a issue.Could someone post some pics of a like install so I can determine what my issue is caused by. Most thanks.
Photo would help. 24-25 or 26-27 body?
25 tudoor. will try to get pics later today.
Still does not tell us if it's a 24-25 or 26-27 tudor. The 25 back didn't use the U-joint swivel, they used the fork type. If you are trying to use the 26/27 type, the angles of the holes in the fire wall and dash may not be the same.
Assuming that is the issue. The angles with existing firewall and dash hole gives a wrong angle.
Not by much but enough to cause rubbing on the manifold bolt. And this is a 25 tudoor.
I ran into this with a 1921 Pickup, and the issue is the manifold clamp style. It had the early clamps with the long stud. I replaced the rear clamp & stud with the short 26-27 style, and Bingo! no more interference. Best, Jeff
I was looking at the Lang's catalog thinking the same thing as Jeff, re the stud and clamp.
Actually, in 1925 one could modify the NH to a swivel top according to the Service Bulletins.
From the listing for 1925 Carbs.
CARBURETORS: Kingston Model L4, Holley Model NH, or Ford F. The Holley Vaporizer was used on some later 1925 models (before the 1926 style cars). The choke rod with the integral carburetor adjustment was introduced late in the model year (before the 1926 models). These cars then used the U-joint type carburetor adjustment.
My 25 Roadster PU came with the U-joint carb and later choking mechanism attached to the single control rod.
Even with the later manifold clamps it is a close fit.
Couple of pics. not a good depiction. One other question regarding the new control rod. How much rework does it typ take to allow the rod to slide easily into the joint on the universal joint top sleeve?
Are you KIDDING ME James?? Is that homemade air cleaner really a bathroom vanity P trap?? If so, what a great idea ! But how do you keep it in the carburetor inlet?
And it's great to see Jeff Beaumont on the Forum !!
Mine came without the bell crank to activate the choke. Choking is accomplished by pulling up on the rod, so it must slide freely in the U-joint sleeve.
Look very closely at the hose clamp just above the carburettor and intake manifold flanges and you will see a bracket at the manifold flange. The hose clamp captures the upper extension of the bracket.
And yes the pipes pit better than you might think. Bill
Ha! Thanks Bill. I see it now. Is this patented or can it be copied? Our allegedly poor county has caliche (dust) gravel roads and I'd like to cobble together something like that.
I think that it is in the public domain. ;-) Bill
George, I also live on a dirt road and thought this up when I got tired of the vendors air filters crammed in by the hogs head and always dirty with oil residue. Bill is right it is held on by a bracket to the bolt on the intake manifold, with a O-ring around the pipe it seals up tight.
The '25s were still using studs for the manifold clamps, not bolts, and as noted above, and the late style clamps must be used. In addition, the swivel joint carburetor used a modified hot air pipe that was dished in about 1/8" to allow more room for the adjusting rod.
Most thanks to all.