The Mtfca Encyclopedia States that the original Ford rear brake shoes were cast in one piece and were supposed to be separated in two when installed. I questioned the vendor when I bought the ones I'm installing now but got a vague answer about separating the shoes. What's the consensus by those who have installed the new one piece shoes with the linings. Put them in and let them break or cut them when installed. Thank you for your advice on this.
If you cut them,you know where the break is. If you don't????
cut them ...
My opinion: don't cut them. Install them as-is.
The service manual says nothing about cutting or breaking the brake shoes.
I think this another one of those myths, i.e. you need to split the shoe. I think this is because sometimes they break on their own and that's and that's they were found after removing the wheel.
My unrestored '17 roadster had two extremely worn out parking brake shoes. One was broken at the pivot, the other was not broken. I have no doubt that both were the original shoes installed at the factory.
It now has NOS brake shoes that my dad gave me. I did not split them.
About 15 years ago we put the "reproduction," two-piece lined shoes on my dad's touring. They were poorly designed and took some major grinding to get them to fit. They also will flop over and rub against the vertical face of the brake drum unless a large washer installed between the shoe and the bolt head. What junk - they should never have been put on the market.
Don't bust them apart. Originals and now the real nice reproduction lined shoes are one piece! Leave 'em that way.
Ford Service Bulletin only mentions that 'if' the shoe is cracked across the bolt boss, in service, IMO rare, that the shoe if it breaks there the 'boss', then you can leave it and not replace. That is because the large boss holds the two pieces under the bolt head. If the shoe is busted elsewhere, then replace with new.
Original NOS iron shoe. One piece.
Don't cut them. Once their in two pieces there's no way to hold them back against the backing plate. I installed a set of the earlier lined 2 piece shoes years ago and devised a small bracket that was installed on the anchor bolt to retain both shoes because the ones I removed had leaned outward and got wrecked by the drum/hub nuts. Anyone familiar with "modern" drum brakes knows their held back by retainer springs for a reason. You'll need to do something like this to avoid damage or I should say prevent damage that will surely happen. Putting the retracting springs on backwards is suggested by some but it didn't satisfy me. I agree with Eric. Those shoes were c**p and required a lot of fiddeling but they were better than un-lined ones in my opinion.
When broken or cracked it's possible for the shoes to rub a little against at the 90 deg. corner of the drum. I've seen this on my own car. Leaving them together makes for a stronger and all around better setup in my opinion.
I have used the one piece replacement that came from Lang's. These have undersized shoes plus the bonded lining that equals the same size as the original all metal to match the 8" drums. They are fine and I have no issues even though I use the hand brake a lot for general braking and not solely for parking. Installation was simple too.
Alan in Western Australia
I can't imagine Henry fitting a second brake shoe return spring on the mounting stud side just to make things look symetrical! If the shoes are left as one piece, that spring is totally redundant, and a waste of money.
IMHO the shoes were made in one peice solely because it was far easier to make and machine them in one piece. Comparing these to the rubbish two piece lined shoes available before Snyders came up with the good ones, is not valid to the discussion. Original cast shoes, split into two pieces, did not give those fitting problems. But, Henry's second spring was then needed.
If keeping them one piece is a priority for you, just cut part way through at the mounting hole, so that when they break iy will not cause real problems and Henry's reduntant spring will come into use.
Allan from down under.
I compromised, I cut a slot in mine halfway through at the location shown by the arrow. That way, if they do crack, they will crack there instead of some other location (like a control joint in a concrete slab).
Hook the springs on the back of the shoes not the front. Then they (springs)will want to pull the shoes to the backing plate. If you put the springs on the outside like above photo, the springs will want to pull the shoes away from the backing plate. Most springs sold that I have seen do not have that nice hook as shown above.
I think that if you look at original shoes there is a notch in the loop around the anchor bolt that allows the shoes to break or to be broke there. The 2ed spring is there ether because you were to break the shoes or in case they did in service.
I believe these Stephens original accessory brake shoes are superior to one piece cast shoes. They can be adjusted to make 100 % contact between the drum and the shoes. Someone should reproduce these!
Jay, Someone did reproduce those back in the '60s. I don't know why they didn't continue, it was slightly before my time in the hobby. They probably are the best version of inside rear brakes for small-drum model Ts.
Nice box! I have seen quite a few of the brake parts, but never seen the box before.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Very informative thread. I was wondering why the shoe pivot points on my TT emergency break look like they were broken. One of the shoes on my truck was also broken above the pivot point and was brazed back together. Don't know if this is a potential weak point so I purchased a set of shoes to have a plan B just in case. When it comes to my hobbies I have adopted the plan that "one can never have enough stuff".
Jay I remember you posting that accessory years ago and there's no doubt in my mind that it's the best set up I've seen for the standard T rear brake and the only one I'd endorse for 2 piece shoes. I allows for full, or at least much better drum/shoe contact and the wedge will hold the shoes back. VERY nice. Are they steel?
I cut mine and they work great
David, what you found with the brazed shoe is exactly the reason the shoes should be installed in two pieces. Had that been done, the shoe would not have broken. You other shoe is the indicator. Fortunately, it broke at the pivot point.
Allan from down under.