Earlier this week my 24 coupe stopped running while out on a ride and after getting it home I found the add-on fuel filter was plugged up. I installed a new one and drove for about 5 miles and all is well. I bought this car late last summer and am still learned about all its characteristics and what should be done to maintain it. I decided I should check the sediment bulb and drain it to clear any sediments in the tank. The drain cock was plugged up so I push a piece of 12 gauge wire up in it and gas came pouring out. In about 3 or 4 seconds it plugged again. 4 or 5 clearings later it is still plugging up. I caught most of the gas that did drain out in a plastic oil tray. I poured the gas in a clear glass jar and at the bottom of the oil tray was a lot of fine sand like material. I used a clear 3/8 hose and siphoned as much of the gas still in the tank into a micro screened funnel in a empty gas can. Moving the hose around the bottom of tank as I siphoned. In the funnel filter was lots and lots more of this very fine sandy like material. I am assuming what this sandy material is rust.
It was suggested to me I should pull out the tank, drain the rest of the gas out and put a coupe of gallons of white vinegar into the tank. With 8 or so 3/8 bolts. Shake the tank up and leave the vinegar in for 24 hours shaking it around several times. Drain the vinegar, then do it again a coupe more times. Lastly, put a gallon of gas in the tank and pour it out. Put the tank back on the car, fill with gas and it should all fine.
Anyone tried this method and with what results?
Had the same problem in my 26 Runabout several years ago on the MTFCI Tour in South Dakota. I "temporarily" fixed the problem to complete the week Tour by placing a magnet on the opposite side of the tank the petcock to collect the rust away from the petcock and filter. Still there couple thousand miles later with no problem. My 2cents.
For a '24, I wouldn't hesitate to skip the cleaning attempts and just buy a new tank:
Jack, I agree with Mark 100%. After weeks of problems, lost time, much work, Steve Jelf ended up doing the same thing and that was the end of his problems. I seem to recall making the same advice back then. They're NOT that expensive, in relation to the satisfaction achieved.
Finding a good original gas tank is getting harder as time goes by. Age catches up to them like it does to original radiators. The outside can look good but its the condition of the inside that maters.
The next tank I buy will be a new one for my 21 Touring rebuild. I did find a decent original at Chickasha 3 years ago that I cleaned up to start driving the car but I'm holding my breath!
I might have tried cleaning my dirty tank, but with a detached baffle clanging around inside a new one was the way to go. As Tim says, I've had no fuel problems since.
Nobody has commented on your passing reference to a fuel filter. You may get away with the glass bowl type, but because the T relies on gravity feed a modern paper filter is likely to restrict the flow enough to produce fuel starvation.
Strap your tank to the rear wheel of a tractor, fill it with BB's, jack up the wheel and put it in low gear. Come back in several hours and your tank interior will shine like new.
For the cars up to 1925, new tanks are available. That would be the best and most reliable way to fix it. I don't know of any new tanks for 26-27. I took mine to a radiator shop which boiled out the tank and sealed with an epoxy solution. That was 12 years ago and it still works fine.
After market filters usually cause fuel starvation with gravity flow systems. The original type sediment bowl has a screen and the particles will settle to the bottom. If the problem is not bad, you can drain a little out each time before you drive the car and that usually fixes the problem.
Another fix for a dirty tank is to solder a small "standpipe" to the outlet fitting allowing it to stand about an inch above the inside bottom of the tank. That keeps the outflow above the sediment.
And when you clean or replace your tank, never leave the car sitting all winter with gasoline containing Ethanol in the tank.
I did order a new tank from Lang's. It's only $150. I also ordered everything from the tank to the carburetor. The tank is backordered. Steve there, told me there is only one guy in the whole country that makes T tanks. He does so for all the retailers apparently. I am number 7 on the waiting list. He also stated that when they do get them in, there is usually 6 to 8 tanks. So, it could take a month or more to get the new one. That could mean July or even later. I'm 67 years old. I could be dead before I get the new one. In Michigan, at best the driving season is 6 months. long. I'm trying to cut the downtime while I wait for the new one. If cleaning the old tank with this method will get me a couple more months until the new one gets here, I am willing to put in the effort. Driving this thing is a riot. Everyone want to talk to you about it.
Gas Tank Renew is fairly close to you. They can
coat the inside only for you. They will cut a hole
in it to get beyond the baffles and then close it up. For everyone except T owners gas tanks are very
expensive and this works well. It is an epoxy coating that lasts decades. Will not rust from
alcohol containing gas. Make sure you tell them how
small it is and let us know what they charge.
There is one in Swartz Creek, Mich
Airplane gas tanks are coated with an epoxy. I had an older International Scout that had gas tanks behind the doors and in front of the wheel wells. They leaked. I took them off and got the airplane tank epoxy. Mixed it and poured it in. Shook each tank a lot, let it dry. Fixed the leaks and I am sure it encased the loose rust.
My dad coated all the gas tanks of the cars he restored for people. Never had any problems.
Jack, did you try all the other vendors beside Langs? I'm sure there must be one out there somewhere....Here's a link to Snyders, did you try them?
John...I'm going to call them on Monday
Jack, I have a new oval gas tank and new mounting straps. I live in Reed City Mich. Same price as Langs and might be a nice drive for you.
Jim, that's a nice offer. I'll keep that in mind. I have some other things I want to order also if Snyder's has a tank in stock. If they don't have one I'll send you PM. Thanks
Jim...I sent you a PM
Temporary fix is to pour some resin in the tank to hold the rust in suspension. I did this to my 27 tank 30 plus years ago, it is still holding and trouble free. I do have a spare good tank and I will be replacing it, some day.
John I already fixed that rust problem twice time in my both cars. I used the Fuel tank repair kit by POR-15. You will fix the problem in one day only and no more rust inside the tank. One on my T's were made 10 years ago without any issue.
Here the link:http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Repair-Kit_p_62.html
All the Best,
I haven't seen por-15 tank sealer before but I am going to try it on a 27 tank. I have used other por products and they work great. Tim
I got a new gas tank installed in my '24 coupe because Jim Sims graciously offered to sell me his extra new one he had. It being very difficult to purchase one these days, I took the 200 mile round trip to get it. I spent an hour with Jim checking out his 5 T's and was most impressed with Jim's knowledge and experience. He is a true gentleman and scholar. Along with the tank I replaced the sediment bulb of which the old one and screen were completely filled and plugged with rust and a fine sandy junk.