I've got a sailboat part that's made out of cast aluminum that slips inside the base of my aluminum mast - this part needs to be tight in the mast but over the years it has become a loose fit in the mast.
I want to slide the cast aluminum part into a broken mast section for the mould, seal the edges with Babbitt dambs playdough, then poor Babbitt into it to create a babbited lined cast aluminum part for a tight fit. (Hope this makes sense)? Then push the cast aluminum babbited mast base out of the aluminum mast mould I used and slip it in the real mast so it will be a very tight fit. Basically it will be a babbited cast aluminum part. This will fix a problem on at least 1500 boats like mine.
FIRST - will babbit attach to cast aluminum?
SECOND - if the babbit will attach to the cast aluminum part - should I tin the cast aluminum part for it to stick?
THIRD - if the babbit will stick would it be better to drill a few holes in my cast aluminum part for the babbit to pour into for a better grip like the holes in the model t blocks?
Thanks in advance!
Are you deck-stepped or keel-stepped? Might frankly be easiest to just replace the unit.
I don't think that the Aluminum and Babbit will like each other very much, but if they do, it might create challenges when removing the mast in the future.
Deck stepped - 16' mc scow.
I should've added this is a Racing Issue - not a safety issue.
For best speed we do not want our mast to move at all because even the slightest movement will change our speed settings over the race.
I read where Herm of kronkie?spelling babbit said babbit does not like aluminum or cast iron thus pin holes were drilled to allow the babbit to grab the blocks. So I can drill pin holes in the cast aluminum base for the babbit to pin into.
I have added photos that show how little movement I am talking about - look at the rivet and you can see how little side to side movement I'm trying to stop. This will effect speed settings greatly so it needs to be stopped if I can, and buying a new part is impossible. Got me thinking my model t skills might save the day...
I'm not familiar with the mc scow, but had a similar problem on a Force 5 and a Chrysler 26. The Force 5 was repaired with a new fiberglass sleeve. The Chrysler 26 we drilled out the mountings ( through drill ) and through bolted.
Looking at your mount, could you possibly shim the fitting tight and instead of the rivets, drill and tap holes, use stainless bolts and washers, just keep them clear of your bail.