looking in with aid of a good flashlight what am I going to see. Pulled differential plug to check fluid and empty, clean as a whistle. This was my uncle's resto project before he passed and I know the engine was gone through but unknown on the rest of the car. Is there any clues to look at through the hole to ascertain if the thrust washers were replaced? Or am I destined to just tear it down?Took pics but not worth posting.
Craig, it must be taken completely apart.
Even if they are brass everything inside can be junk. You don't know anything until you know it.
Thanks, out she comes this week end. Maybe I can get my wife to assist. Not. Finishing up a mg midget with a rotary in it and she wants that one out b4 another project comes in.
Just be sure everything is supported, blocked, braced, balanced, and safe!
Good luck! Have fun! And be safe!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Do you happen to have Rocky Mountain brakes? _If so, and they work well, were I you, I might be tempted not to crack open the differential. _Yes, I know that's not the very best advice, but to someone like me, for whom taking the whole rear end apart would be a daunting task, well...
Bob, with all due respect, if you drive a Model T without rebuilding the rear axle and something fails many parts can be destroyed. Then it costs more to rebuild the rear end then it would have costed if you had simply rebuilt it first. Also, rocky mountain brakes do not work very well in reverse so if the rear end fails while climbing up a steep hill they might not be able to stop the car.
Well there is one plus to this. No grease to mop up. If anybody is free this Friday, or Saturday and wants to get dirty give me a call. I have beer, or whatever.
South of Clearwater, MN towards Annandale. 7 miles on 24.
I just went through this process this past week as several posts to this forum will testify to.
Was given a rear end as my Speedster donor project has a warford and shortened drivetrain and tube. Cracked open the pumpkin and let it drain out for several days. Took it all aprt and found one brass thrust washer on one side and one original babbit washer on the other, in pieces, but still held in place. Severe chips of the teeth of the ring gear. Sent the tubes out to be hot dipped for several days while I ordered parts.
Found used ring gear on eBay for $35, ordered new boot type inner seals and felt outer seals and two brass thrust washers. Bought safety wire from the auto parts store.
Replaced the ring gear, got the tubes back, instaled new seals and new thrust washers. Everything back together to spec.
600w gear oil coming from Langs in the next day or so and then I can install driveshaft and tube and radius rods.
The manual on the rear axle was great.
Total rebuild and now I know that what I have will last as long as I take care of it and keep everything oiled and greased.
If I can do it, anyone can do it.
I'm blind. My wife reads the manual to me.
You can do it. email me with any questions and I'll talk you through it.
Something interesting happened on a tour last week. The car broke a rear axle and he had disk brakes on it. The brake caliper actually kept the wheel on like a safety hub!
We bought a rebuilt water pump for our farm traytop truck recently, rather than rebuild our own. My son has a device which he plugged into his phone and then fed the the attached lead into the pump. It revealed a severely eroded impeller had been installed, so we backed out of the deal.
Might this same application allow us to see inside the diff to check if bronze thrusts have been fitted? While it may still be too difficult to see around the crown wheel side, the RH side may be ok.
Allan from down under.
You do make a point, Stephen.
Craig, you said it is clean and dry inside. You didn't say if or how far it may have been driven without oil? This sounds like it may have been rebuilt and just not added the oil yet? Try inserting a magnet inside to the bottom and see if you get any metal debri. If not I sort of tend to agree with Bob. Put some oil in it and take a drive to see how it sounds. You can always rebuild it later.
I like the idea of the carrier for the rear axle bolted to the floor jack that Steve Jelf uses! Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
I've got a little free time today and possibly tomorrow. I was planning to head down the the Homestyle Cafe in Annandale today to see if I can use them for a lunch stop on a tour that I'm planning. I only live a few miles from you. I'm on the river, straight north of the Hasty Truck Stop. I'll give you a call later this morning.
Eric, Having difficulties sending you a private msg so I'll post here hoping you will get before you leave. With the wonderful weather as it is I may forego the T work today. Would love to get together and learn of others in the area that also enjoy this hobby, or past time. I live in Monticello but the
T is at the Annandale location (mother in laws) 7 miles north of the town. Thank you for your offer to assist. my phone is 763-222-7737
I would suggest that you don't pull the whole rear axle assembly first. Just pull the hubs off both wheels, disconnect the rear spring from the shackles, pull the LH axle housing, then the axles and differential assembly can be pulled out so you can inspect it all.