Latest project is repairing my work garage. The base on two sides were completely rotted away. One side is done. working on fixing other parts, then ready for paint. I'd rather be finishing the 24! That will be shortly. The boy was helping me paint, he ended up getting more paint on himself. Good thing it was chilly out and he had his hood up or he would have had white hair where he scratched his head. Needless to say his clothes got tossed out!
Keeping the grade lower than the building and the flora and fauna back a foot or two will greatly
extend the life of a building and allow the owner to do other things (like work on their cars !).
.... but it offers a guy like me a LOT of job security. I repair a lot of stuff like this .... which helps
me PAY for all my cars and toys !
The only reason the boy was helping you paint is that he wants to get the siding done so you can BOTH go back inside and work on cars.
Being in construction I have built many wood sided buildings and if I may be so bold as to make a suggestion...I always use a treated 2x12 at the bottom and then rest the T-111 siding on top of it with "Z" flashing and then run a bead of caulking where everything meets. This way the T-111 siding isn't down where it is moist and the "Z" flashing sheds the water to the outside.. I know you already have this done but if you ever have to do it again you may want to try it.
If you are going to build form scratch, wider eaves help.
Also, installation of gutters and downspouts would probably do wonders for Dan's situation and prevent maintenance headaches in the future.
Dennis, you may be right but he has said for awhile now when he grows up he wants to do construction, but he is more interested in working on the T.
You are correct on the building. It was built in 1970, four years before I bought this place. I can't believe they didn't pour the pad higher. I had to double the number of rafters from inside or with the snow we get, the snow would have taken it down. They did use Z flashing, but it doesn't help much sitting on the ground. I used a chain saw and cut two foot up and made the new wall with pressure treated, and calked every seam, especially between the floor and the treated 2x4 and the base of the T-111. I used 2x4 on the side and 2x6 on the front, 2x12 all around would have been better. One of the advantages of hitting 70 (where did that come from) is I don't think I will have to worry about doing it again.
With the things I get the boy involved in, I loose track of how young he is, until I see him at Pre-K with the other kids. Picture is of him at a party at pre-k
Erik, cheap poor construction has eliminated eaves on many buildings and is the reason I had to replace the T-111 on the side. Water got behind the window trim and rotted it out. It's a pet peeve of mine. Gutters help but around here the ice takes them out.
Yikes Dan your car is blind!!!
Yikes Dan your car is blind!!! You better get back to him soon before he runs into something
Andria, you are right, it's in line for a transplant, a donor is standing by.
Dennis, what do you prime pressure treated wood with that will hold paint for any length of time?
I let it age for a year so the chemicals and water have time to dissolve and dry out. The problem with pressure treated is that, unlike kiln dried wood, water and chemicals are injected into the boards under pressure so there is a lot of moisture inside that must dry out before painting. I use water based stains or a product called "Deckscapes" by Sherwin-Williams.
I skirted my garage and barn with Hardiplank several years ago and so far am happy with the results.
Thanks Dennis, will do.