Here's one way.
Here is another.
If you use the 1 piece (lower picture) or 2 piece (upper picture) gland and ring type manifold gaskets, the intake and exhaust manifolds joined by the ring, easily stay in place while you hold them with one hand and secure them with the 4 clamps.
These type gaskets are much better than the flat asbestos gaskets because the rings form a tunnel through which the hot gases pass thereby protecting the block and manifold from the passage of hot gases, while decreasing the chances of a leak. Jim Patrick
Another method is to install the front and rear clamps vertically and snug up the nuts, then install the intake manifold and the inner clamps and tighten them. Loosen/turn and retighten the outer and you're good to go - I've used that method several times when testing different intake manifolds without any exhaust sealing problems
I've never used it yet, but I've seen Roger's method mentioned many times. Looks simple to me. JMHO Dave
I made 2 (two) half clamps out of wood.
In have cut one end off two badly eroded clamps and these are installed on the studs as usual, the good end holding the manifold, the missing end allowing the intake to be fitted and held on with the other two whole clamps. It is a poor man's version of Toon's keepers.
Allan from down under.
Another way that I use is a large c clamp going over the top to the other side of the motor. Steve
I'm with Jim Patrick, I like the one piece glands, makes it very easy to put the manifolds on using your good ol' two hands with nothing else special.
I use one of my kids or a grandkid.
How about one of these.
I use Allans method. There are plenty of old manifold clamps around. The late ones work a little better.
That's the tool I have & use, Kim.
I been doing it the way that Roger K. shows since I first started working on T's back in the 60's.
It just seemed that it would work so I started doing it that way.
I use a modification of Roger's method: I have found that it's easier to get the intake on if I install the center two clamps AFTER it's in position ;<)
It's a picture I loaned from another thread, not mine RV Of course I put the intake on first, then the center two clamps. The main point with my posting was to say it's unnecessary to cut temporary clamps for the outer positions - you can just as well turn ordinary clamps vertical while installing the intake. Haven't tried with the older style clamps, just the 25-27 style, though.
(Message edited by Roger K on May 18, 2016)
I use the Roger Swedish method. It works just fine for me. Three hands help too!
Frankly, I've never found it THAT hard to just put the manifolds up there carefully, letting the gland rings semi-sorta help hold one while you get the other one to do the same, then hold them with finger pressure until you can get a clamp snugged up. Yes, it might take a couple of tries, but really, it's not THAT hard.
No one has questioned the picture of that interesting looking head Steve posted. Very unique!
That's easy- "Honey, can you help me for a minute?"
Steve's head looks like a standard low head. However, if you look just right it looks like an optical illusion around the spark plug holes.
Just wondering about using the 3 in one gasket set? and how do they work. If one type is better..Tim Hales Saginaw,Mi
I tried the one piece rings. I still wake up screaming during the night from such an horrible experience. I went back to the two piece rings and use a homemade clamp similar to the Stevens Manifold Clamp over the top of the head. Works like a charm.
I use two furniture clamps to hold the exhaust manifold in position while I get the intake manifold into position. With only one pair of hands, it seems to work well.
I use a nylon strap around the engine
Coming back on some of the suggestions, any device which does not put load directly on the clamping pads on the manifold will tend to cock the manifold. Steve's rubber hold down will pull the top of the manifold against the cylinder head. That's OK as long as the manifold stays engaged with the gaskets and gland rings as it should, but in my experience, this rarely is the case.
Toon's keepers, the Stevens tool, and the cut off keepers I use result in the manifold being held correctly in line. The keepers can be used independently, allowing you to remove one or the other manifold, while leaving its mate in place.
They are at their best when the exhaust manifold can be left in place, while you remove the intake manifold so you can get the generator off a RHD car!
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Tim, gaskets like the ones in Jim Patrick's pictures are best. I use the first kind. Without the rings which fit into recesses in the engine and the manifolds, it's too easy for the heating and cooling exhaust manifold to become warped. It's a good idea to add some high-temp RTV to the washers, especially if the engine has rust pits that might otherwise allow leaks.
I slipped the closed end of a 7/16" combination wrench over a stud and loosely nutted it.
Good enough to hold it in place until the intake was in position.......
duh!! dont forget to take off the bungee,ha,ha. charley
Just get two junk manifold clamps, and cut the ends off each. That will hold the exhaust manifold while you install the intake.
Yup I do what Larry said. I have two cut off to fit 22 - 27 and two others cut off to fit earlier T's.
I agree with LArry that's how we do it