Crankshaft difference for 1927

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Crankshaft difference for 1927
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joao De Sousa, Beamsville Ontario on Wednesday, May 18, 2016 - 08:01 am:

Gents, my rebuilder is offering me a choice of used crankshaft for my rebuild. One is thicker and the other seems tapered. Any Idea which one is newer/better. Also if anyone has a picture of proper paint colours on a 1927 engine that would be appreciated...Cheers, Joao


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell, Huntsville, AL on Wednesday, May 18, 2016 - 08:13 am:

I'd forget a T crank and go with a standard SCAT. Worth the extra expense for the piece of mind, it won't break.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joao De Sousa, Beamsville Ontario on Wednesday, May 18, 2016 - 08:21 am:

John, thanks but this rebuild is costing 6k and I can't justify spending another 1.5k. WTS I'm trying to pick the best option I can afford and have to take the risk?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, May 18, 2016 - 08:26 am:

The tapered throws were used 1909-24 and are considered slightly weaker than the 1924-27 design with straight and thicker throws. The radii at the ends of the rod journals were also larger on the '24-'27 cranks, giving them a slightly better chance to withstand metal fatigue. Many 26/27 cranks were made of "EE" steel and they're considered the best. You can tell from a marking in the throw or a stamping in the front end of the crank.

Here's a list of all the paints used on 1927 style engines: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm#paint2

An example of the paints can be seen on a cutaway display engine at the Henry Ford Museum:

m1
m2
m3


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joao De Sousa, Beamsville Ontario on Wednesday, May 18, 2016 - 09:23 am:

Wow! Thanks Roger this information is amazing...cheers,Joao


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Wednesday, May 18, 2016 - 01:00 pm:

Make sure your new crank is magnafluxed for cracks .


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Whelihan Danbury, WI on Wednesday, May 18, 2016 - 04:04 pm:

Joao, $6K and no crank?? I paid $6.3K a couple years ago and got a full rebuild of block and transmission with a SCAT crank, Z head, and Stipe camshaft. Seems to me with a price of $6K (even Canadian) you should be able to get a new crankshaft. I'd forego a couple non-essential items like high compression head, etc. that could be added later easily and get the SCAT crank. A new crank can save you more headaches down the road than any other piece.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joao De Sousa, Beamsville Ontario on Wednesday, May 18, 2016 - 08:05 pm:

Kevin, Thanks for the advice but I looked around and that's the best price I can find. It does include the used crank (magnafluxed) and the transmission rebuild as well. Cheers, joao


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 07:47 pm:

I wish I would of added a new crank to my last build I had no problems but will on this next motor build coming up! The more I think about, it just makes good economical sense.Tim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Thursday, May 19, 2016 - 07:49 pm:

If your gonna keep the same T for along time or intend to drive a lot of miles as I do!!


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