Putting the rear end back together after a rebuild, new ring gear, pinion, washers, seals, axles, left gear case, gaskets, the whole nine yards. Set the clearance at 10 thousands per the book between pinion and ring, blued the gears to make sure they engaged properly (they did), dry fit the entire assembly drive shaft and the two halves of the diff. All worked great. Then permatexed the gaskets in for final assembly, turned the drive shaft and get the click click click of the gears bottoming out. What did I miss?
Ring gear bolts may be too long and contacting pinion
When you did the dry fit did you have a gasket in place? If not putting one in could be the cause.
Yep, gasket in place and blued the gears for contact. right in the middle and not hitting the ring gear bolts.....
Could be that the thrust washer on the drivers side is not seated and is pushing the assembly to the right. Are the thrust washers back on the correct side from setup.
If the ring gear is dry (no lube) and there is enough drag in the thrust washers so that you are hearing the engagement of one tooth at a time making the clicking sound.
Are you hearing the click sound all the way around (full revolution of the ring gear) or just in spots?
I take it that you had both sides bolted together along with the driveshaft assembly installed for final test before gluing.
Clicking all the way around(full revolution)
If you put the differential together as the Ford Service book says to, you will have no problems, No need to blue anything.
Following the service book. Did forget to mention that I went with the non-stock gear ratio so the pinion is a larger
Hey John - the 39 tooth ring gear for the 3:1 optional gearing is a problem like David writes - you must do something to avoid contact between the ring gear bolts and the pinion teeth, see pictures in this older thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/204166.html?1302485359
That old thread is full of information, well worth reading.
Thanks Roger, sounds like the same issue. Boy, grinding the pinion would not be my first choice. Seemed to work for him though
John, Did you use the modern taper bearing set up?? I had the same problem, it was the allen set screw hitting in the tube. I took it down with a file , no problem after that. Don
Same thing happened to me that Don had. It drove me crazy for a bit until I saw a scrape on the inside of the tube!
Nope, old bearing
I ground the corner off the pinion teeth, shortening the bolts would have left so few threads in contact - the threaded holes aren't square with the bolts where they come out.
What about flat washers/shims under the bolt heads to space the bolt away from the pinion teeth? Seems to me it would be better than grinding pinion teeth.
To get the screw end under the surface of the ring gear you have to use so thick shims that you loose as many threads as when shortening the bolts. The only solution that keeps the strength is grinding the bolt ends when they are in place, and then you would risk not getting the screw in the same position, should you ever need to remove them. There's no similar downside with careful grinding/chamfering of the back end of the pinion teeth.