I am finishing up rebuilding the rear end and have a question on the outer seals. The aluminum caps are seated on the axle tube but the seal still is in contact with the key way is this correct? I would think it would wear away the seal. The differential is a post 1919 and seals were ordered for such. Any help is appreciated
The caps are supposed to go further onto the axle housing ends so the seal hopefully clears the key way and seals on the shaft. If not, then check the dimensions of the axle housing ends and inspect them carefully for damages. The caps has o-rings that takes some force to compress, so some force would be necessary, though.
when I pushed them on I lightly tapped them to seat them on the axle tube thinking they might not be seated fully on the tube. When they were removed a could see a slight rub mark on the inside of the seals on the aluminum from the axle tube end. With them seated fully on the tube I still had 0.30" left of the tube sticking out of the aluminum seal.
I've cut back the housings to make them fit for clearance and also turned the old felt seal lip out of the hubs too.
Thought about that too but my Hyatt bearings are nearly to the edge of the housing (I'll have to measure) and I did not think it would give me enough clearance to trim back the axle housing.
With the modern flexible neoprene seals on the inside of the outer Hyatts, the outer modern seals isn't as necessary - the grease won't get mixed up with differential oil and the original outer felt seals would be enough.
Then you can save the outer seals for another project where they hopefully fits better (all T's aren't the same - especially after 90+ years )
That modern neoprene cap needs to fit fully on the turned down housing shaft. Perhaps you haven't seated it fully.
And the Hyatt bearing and its sleeve needs to be flush too.
As Roger suggested, I used the neoprene inner seals and the original style felt outer seals. First was the touring car five years ago, then the roadster three years ago. So far both are fine. Without rear axle oil leaking into the Hyatts, I think the felt outer seals are perfectly adequate. At least that's been my experience.
King, I had the same problem, the only way those seals will fully seat and clear the key way, is to remove the internal seal or turn down the face of the seal on the inside where it makes contact with the hyatt bearing.
I also had the same problem on one axle only. I cleaned out the keyway good and filled in the end of the keyway where the seal rides with JB weld, and then filed it smooth. This stopped the seepage I was seeing.
Steve, your right, you don't need outer neoprene seals if you have good inner neoprene seals. The bearings are filled with grease, not oil. As long as the inner seal keeps the axle oil out of the outer bearing the outer felt seal will not leak. We chose to use a boot type neoprene seal for our inner seals. That's because the lip type neoprene seal that they used in these outer seal will leak when the axles and sleeves get worn. That's because the axle will push on one side of the seal and leave a gap on the other side. The boot type seal will follow the axle travel off center.
Same problem here - the axle in question is a repro that was machined locally and the keyway goes further in. Like Ray, I filled the area around the seal with JB weld. Evidentally my shaping of the JB weld wasn't perfect because there is still some leakage of grease on that side (yes grease, not oil, and the inner seals are neoprene boot types). Perhaps I have too much grease in there, but probably better to have more than less.
I found them to be a pain to install. They would not slip over the axle tube even with heavy pounding. I gave mine away.