I have 26 roadster pickup with 22 motor. The carb has flat adjustment with two holes . Ordered new adjustment rod and discovered that 26 needs the U joint style adjuster .
Can I change screw to 26 style in the carb?
This is my 1st T. Needs minor things . Lower windshield frame, carb adjuster , fan belt , exhaust gasgets .
Runs and drives good
It's not a peach or shiny but its got tons of character .
Also missing top and seat springs , door latch for passenger door .
I have the original engine also but carb is gone .
No plan now to restore , just preserve and have fun.
Want to keep as original as possible .
Info on carb appreciated !!
Following to learn about carb
With the later NH carb you can convert to the '25-'27 style combo choke and adj rod. Just order the pieces needed from vendors.
You will need new adj needle with the u-joint, new lock barrel nut on the carb body, the choke/adj. rod, the slip sleeve with ear, and length of wire for the choke wire from the carb choke lever to the slip sleeve. Plus a little cotter pin to hold the slip sleeve up the choke/adj. rod. Choke/adj rods came in different lengths for the various body styles, but today you cut/fit and add the upper knob. The long rod has a square end that fits into the square body of the u-joint needle. It slides into that body when you pull for choke.
Thanks for pic Dan !
I have the rod and sleeve ordered, all I need is the right adjustment screw and U joint. Oh and one piece of wire .
I'm a little slow. If it's a 1922 engine, I'm assuming an NH carb. Is there any reason to switch it to the U-joint rod?
His T is a '26 and running a '22 engine.
The '26 has no choke butterfly on the cowl, so he needs to use the later NH u-joint set up to have one hand choke and carb adj. knob that comes out of the Improved Car dashboard.
Dan - I'm thinking that Steve's onto something:
Because Dallas says in his original post,...."no plan now to restore, just preserve and have fun".
I think he should just leave the carburetor alone if it runs well, and just operate the '22 style carb with simple fork type adjustment rod, like a '22 NH Holley originally had, and run a separate home-made wire or rod down to the choke butterfly and call it good, and just run it and "have fun" like Dallas said.
Dallas - If what I just said makes sense, the excellent photo Steve just posted shows you exactly how to set your carburetor up and how it should look,.....FWIW,......harold
I know your thinking of running 'as is' but really
He has the Improved Car! Single control for choke and rich/lean on the dash is a real treat.
As for that 'forked rod' , that silly thing won't reach up under the cowl gas tank anyway, no slot in the dash, could only make happen with cutting, building a new rod, even then reaching under that gas tank would be risky with hand off the wheel adjusting rich/lean at road speed. And then wire for the choke has to be made.
So easy to go with the Improved Car set-up
Far advanced over the older Fords with electric start, one hand control at easy reach on the dash , that knob sitting to the right of the switch panel Henry called them "Improved" for a reason !!
I don't know much about those modern cars.
So Dan,.....to go with the "26 - '27 single control set-up, can Dallas just "unscrew" the float needle valve adjustment and remove from his present NH carb and screw in a new needle valve adjustment assembly ('26 - '27) that has the U-joint connection? Or does he have to replace his present NH carb with a '26 -'27 NH carb that has the U-joint on the needle valve adjuster already?
Note the dent in the hot air pipe.
The hot air pipe and dent are very important to smooth operation of your engine.
The dent you speak of looks like someone did it. The factory "dents" are stamped in, and are a nice transition.
Yes. Just unscrew the needle valve assembly and install the later needle, it comes with the u-joint swagged to the top of the needle instead of the swagged on two hole plate.
The u-joint is needed as it allows a much lower angle for the adjustment rod, as the Improved Car gas tank is under the cowl and no way to use a lesser angle rod of the earlier design for the two hole plate.
The two hole plate on top of the needle has to have a rod placed at a higher angle to work, if too low an angle the plate can't be turned effectively. The u-joint swivel solves that for the lower angle needed to clear the cowl gas tank.
The needle valve for the later u-joint style is held firm from loosening back or down (messes with rich/lean setting if vibrations shake the threaded shaft out of place) by the large fingered collar around the cylinder upper shaft of the larger brass lock nut. You squeeze the fingered collar for best resistance.
The earlier needle valve is held firm by the smaller brass split lock nut, you tighten down that nut in the carb body to get resistance needed.
So for 26-27 cars i can use the older style carb and swap out the above shown controls and the carb performs the same!! Tim
The angle to the bottom of the dash is my concern . Sounds like changing the adjustment screw will solve issue . With new rod and sleeve I won't need the custom made coat hanger choke controll where the carb adjuster goes . Not my choice with all the reasonable options but it came that way .