Is the correct toe 1/8 inch in, and how is the connection rod yoke tightened. Simply "snug" up the bolt and then tighten the nut?
It's 3/16" to 1/4" measured by the tire. One turn of the tie rod adjusts it about 1/8". Then snug it up and put cotter pins where they belong
Thanks Roger... simple enough.
I see you are from Sweden.
My grandfather Helge was from Gothenburg.
I'm building a boat that I named after him.
He was a very talented cabinet maker.
Roger - Some confusion exists which depends on the method a person uses to MEASURE the toe-in.
As you have stated, 3/16" to 1/4" is what I believe Ford recommended.
Now then, assume that you have jacked up the front axle so as to raise both front wheels off of the ground. Assume you have spun both wheels and with ball point pen or similar, you have made a visible line on the treads of the spinning tires all the way around as the tires are spinning. Now, you measure the distance from one line to the other, and here is where the confusion can come in:
You measure the distance between the line on each tire at the front of the tires, and then measure at the back of each tire. Then you subtract the lesser measurement at front, from the greater measurement at the back of each tire. Subtracting the lesser measurement from the greater gives you the amount of toe-in.
Here is where it can be confusing,.....a difference between front and back measurements of 1/4" is actually 1/8" toe-in. A difference of 1/2" between front and back measurements is actually 1/4" toe-in, which is the maximum toe-in that is desired, right?
Another way to explain it is that if you start with front and back of tires measurements that are identical, and then adjust toe-in so that the front measurement measures exactly 1/4" less, the difference between front and back measurements would be 1/2", right? (this is not what we want)
Another way of saying it is that if you adjust toe-in so that measuring the front distance is 1/4" less than when front and back measurements were identical, you would now have 1/2" of toe-in, which is twice as much as what we want.
The important thing to remember is that the difference between front and back measurements should be 1/4" maximum, period!
As usual, my "explanation is too "wordy" already, but there is something else that should be said:
All of the above "ASSUMES" a tight front end with everything in perfect condition. In real life, it should be remembered that ANY amount of toe-in will probably increase the amount of ACTUAL rolling toe-in as the car rolls forward on the ground.
Therefore, even if the toe-in was adjusted perfectly with the front axle jacked up and both wheels off of the ground, the ACTUAL rolling toe-in may increase as the car is being driven forward. For this reason, the measurements should be repeated, with the car on the ground and after being rolled forward for at least a couple feet, and stopped without letting the car roll back at all.
If it sounds like I'm making this all sound too complicated, it should be remembered that this is why there are front end alignment shops with very expensive equipment to correctly and accurately set up even just the toe-in, because it is not all that easy to get it perfect. And us back-yard-mechanic type "T-guys" are trying to get it right with hand tools, right?
Harold - actually I think you make it far too complicated. The measurements at the front of the tire should be between 3/16" and 1/4" less than the measurement at the rear of the tire. That's toe in. Any slop in the front end should be taken care of before setting the toe in. After setting the toe in, take a test ride - if it doesn't feel right you may have measured wrong and should check again. If it feels right, it's OK and you don't have to worry about it anymore for a long time.
Wendell - cool boat, reminds me somewhat of a fishing boat - used to be lots of them in Gothenburg and other smaller coast villages in the old days with one cylinder hot bulb engines chugging along trying to get some catch.
Helge is a name for old men here nowadays, might take another 20 years until it eventually gets popular again
How about Ture or Reinholdt?
Wendel, the tie rod bolts are stepped. They are screwed in until the step bottoms out. The nut is then installed. As such it is a locknut. Don't forget the split pin. If you have up and down slop in the yoke, the yoke has worn and you may need a washer to take up this slack.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
You need to put a strip of masking tape on each front tire. With the masking tape dead ahead make a mark on each and measure between. Now turn each wheel 180 degrees and measure again. The difference is your toe in, or if maladjusted it could be toe out.
Neither wheels or tires are perfectly true so you need to make your measurements between the same two points.
Thanks, Allan B. Describing the step bolt design helps me understand how to tighten the ends.
And thanks to all for the more than adequate advice!
(Message edited by windy on June 04, 2016)