Back in the day when they installed the longer "A" crank in a model t, they used a spacer and moved the transmission cover back. I know about cutting and welding the flange, that is not what I am asking.
I have read in older race car accounts of spacing the T transmission cover back, but not sure how this was accomplished. So does anyone know?
The block is actually moved forward on the pan. The front dam is moved forward and there is a spacer to seal the hogs head.
A little different spin on installing model A cranks in a T block. I have a late model T engine with an "A" crank where the center main was heated and squeezed (Shortened) in a press. The model A crank with a shortened and enlarged center main was straightened and ground to fit in the T block. Was told a number of model A cranks were modified using this method in the 70's by someone in the Los Angeles area. This allowed machining the model A rear flange to fit the T flywheel. The A crank also has welded on counter balances and is drilled for oil pressure. The engine also has Riley multi-lifts. It has a modified oil pump mounted were the generator normally is. A strong runner.
In the "Day".....minds were busy thinking of different ways to beef up the lower end in model T's. With Scatt now making new cranks....all it takes is $$$$'s and a new cranks comes in the mail.
Older post on using a C crank as it fits. But using a spacer between the hogshead.
By Frank Harris on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 07:43 pm:
Later Ford cranks fitted to a Model T
There was some discussion about shortening a Model A crank in order to fit it in a Model T block.
I have attached a photograph below that shows that a Model C crank will fit in a T block without shortening it.
It requires that a relocating spacer be fabricated which will move the hog's head aft the correct distance. You can see the arched aluminum spacer very clearly in the photograph.
The front dam in the pan is also relocated. The front of the Model A or B or C crank shaft is modified to fit the T block. Note that this engine has a special steel billet flywheel.
The throws of the crank shaft are also reduced for pan clearance and the whole rotating assembly is then balanced. This technique will keep you from breaking a crank shaft.
Some folks are mounting the crank in a press, heating it up cherry red and then applying pressure to shorten the crank. The squeezed metal is then removed in a lathe.
You can do anything if you want to spend the money. The hog's head relocating spacer at the rear of the block results in a very strong engine. If you are interested I can post pictures of the bottom of the engine so you can see the complete picture.
It would be my guess that model C cranks might be very hard to find?? Bud.
I had a model A crank modified with counter weights added several years ago. Total cost was $850. Best option today is to run the SCAT. The added benefit with the SCAT is no altered crank and the rods are now centered in the piston cylinders and not a 1/4" off center.
I have done the welded flange and it worked for awhile. I've moved the block with a C crank. Worked OK. Now I shorten the rear main about 3/4" and install a new rear flange that is a inch thick by warming it (about 500 degrees) and using a taper fit. I have now repaired 3 broken welded conversations with no problems
The dam is moved ahead 5/8". I have the spacers in stock. PM me if you need one. Dan