I've been advised by dealer to go with a 3' V-nose on my 24' trailer.
I was planning on a 4' V-nose with extended tongue but was told that this may lead to sway.
I will be towing with a 1996 F-350 and am not sure that this would tend to be a problem
anyone out there experience trouble with a sharp V?
Goose neck... no sway issues.... I have been told that a V nose does nothing for fuel economy so I wouldn't go with a long V
My trailer is 20 ft with a 4 ft v nose and I can't tell any difference in gas milage.
I have a torsion hitch with a sway bar and can't see any change in sway. My old trailer just had a radius and I can't see any difference. I pull it with a F150 4 door.
The v nose just provides some room for light stuff storage really. Trailer sway is alot to do with the load placement in the trailer and the tire sidewalls.
Weight distribution hitch will equalize load and minimize sway.
The faster you drive - the more sway.
Always get an extended tongue.
From a stability point of view, the trailer does not know if its a V nose or a flat nose- all it knows is how far from the hitch to the axles and what the weight distribution is. Weight loading is everything with any trailer and I don't think the aerodynamic loading has that much effect on trailer stability unless you are in a hurricane. My 20' flat nose Haulmark would be unstable if I loaded it incorrectly. Just food for thought, but with the 350, I doubt you would notice much difference between the two.
I always load with the 60/40 ratio, 60% on the tongue and axle and 40% on the rear.
I have an 18 foot enclosed with a 5' V nose, 18" extra highth. Pull it with a F350. Pulled it to Richmand last week and back. Not a sign of a sway. I use the hitch that came on it, not an equalizing hitch. No problem.
My 18 foot enclosed with 4 foot v nose and an extra foot of height pulls nice behind my 2016 Sierra 1500. I also use a WD hitch as others have mentioned. Only time I feel the trailer moving around is on extremely windy days
We had a 20 foot long 8 foot wide sloped nose and got one mile to the gallon more than with an 18 foot long 7 foot wide blunt nose. V noses and slope noses do get better mileage. At least a 600 pound tongue weight or you will get sway, and that's the name of that tune. We sold the slope nose due to the fact that the highway builders put five lanes into a four lane highway and we make sparks in the left lane with a nine foot wide lane and an 8 foot wide trailer while driving with white knuckles.
The extended tongue with a V nose trailer makes a difference if you have a tailgate to raise or lower on your tow vehicle. As far as gas mileage is concerned, I have 2 identical trailers except that one is a V nose and the other is a flat nose and there is no difference in the gas mileage but you do pick up a bit of extra storage space with the V nose.
I don't have near the experience that Freighter Jim has, but I always load a minimum of 10% of the load forward (on the tongue). I've pulled my T cross-country several times like that on an 18' open trailer without a problem. I seldom go faster than 65 MPH. I use an 11 Jeep GC Overland as my "tractor".
That 10% forward figure comes from the dealer from which I purchased the trailer.
WE have an expert on this subject in Jim and his advice should rule supreme.
You guys with the 250 and 350 gas or deisel it don't make much difference, but us with 1500 it does. My trailer is 26 foot long,8 and half wide and 18 inches extra height. with a 4 vee and a 4 foot tongue. the long tongue makes turning with a slide in camper and the vee nose keeps the camper out of the corner of the trailer. The vee nose makes a place for my porty pot, clothes rack, tools, winch,chairs, and general plunder.proper loading and at least 10 ply tires and sway control hitch is a must. Besides in mo. I pay taxes on 26 foot and don't have to put modot tape on the side so I get 8 foot free
Lots of discussion about "flat nose" vs. vee nose, but nobody ever talks about the "bulb-shaped rounded nose we all see on thousands and thousands of semi truck trailers. (....also, on the nose of the newer 5th-wheeler RV's) My thought is that there has to be some reason why this shape is so common on trucks and I'm sure that the reason is fuel economy. I don't see it very often (yet) but there has been fairly recently made available, an "after-market" fiberglass bulb-shaped accessory that can be easily "trimmed-to-fit" and easily attached to a flat-nosed cargo or car-hauler trailer. I have been advised that these are more effective than a vee nose shape, however,.....admittedly, this claim was made to me by a trailer dealer who sells them. Anybody know anything about these?
I always put a extra 10-15lbs of pressure in the rear tires of the truck. It helps alleviate that squash-butt feeling of the trailer swaying.
I pull a 30' enclosed trailer, flat nose, with two cars in it with my '95 Ford Diesel with single rear tires and no equalizing bars. She will sway terrible if I load it wrong. By wrong, I mean too much tongue weight. moving the cars to the back makes all the difference. The extended tongue is always better because you are able to make sharper turns with out doing damage. No experience with the shaped fronts.
Frame size - construction - number & size of axles - placement of axles - loading of trailer ....
All factor into sway ....
FJ do you have AIRTABS on your trailer? I just installed some on the sides of mine and I'll check them out on my next trips to the 500 and then to the MTFCA tour.
My experience is that tongue weight is critical to good towing. My enclosed trailer always tows perfectly except once when w had a load of long 4X4'swith no way to shift the load. I had to drive very carefully to prevent swaying on that short trip.
I have wheel chocks mounted in my trailer so I know exactly where to park the T for best tongue weight distribution.
The simple rule is more weight in front of the axle or axles than behind them. That is why they make axles with trailers with axles towards the rear. Look at boat trailers with boats with rear engines. The axles are far aft. I do not agree with Dave Young. He likes to load the trailer tail heavy and that just makes the trailer wander all over the place. Freighter Jim is accurate. I use an 18 inch draw-bar so that the square nose doesn't kiss the back of our truck.
Just to clarify, I'm not saying to load tail heavy... Just that if i put too much of the weight forward, my little truck becomes a handful. I've been in the Heavy Hauling business for 35 years pulling oversize loads all over this country with my own rigs. Never pulled anything with an F150 but I hear they are wonderful.
I am only an " expert at not following directions as outlined (ask the women in my life) .....
I think air tabs would be great along with rear door " tailgater " folding shutters you see on semi truck box trailers and a wind buffer nose cone.
I have a " coffin front " trailer - I added a loft full width across the front four feet that serves as a storage area and bunk in cooler weather.
My interior trailer height is about 9 feet .
OK, Today we towed the Red Roadster 600+ miles very close to the posted speed limit on our way to the Montana 500. I had some wheel chocks mounted on the floor so my Torpedo was always loaded in the correct spot. I Believe the 26 Roadster has a little more weight in the rear of the trailer with the wheel at the stops.
At the motel we moved the chocks and repositioned the Roadster about 2 feet forward. I think this will make the trailer tow straight as an arrow like it did before.
I post again to let everyone know.
Since I installed some Airtabs on both sides of the trailer I was looking fat all the semis and other high vehicles and didn't 1 person. Lots of side curtains and rear spoilers on the semi trailers.
I pulled 375 miles this weekend with a 2014 ram 5.7 gas burner 1500 with load hitch and sway bar at 55 to 70. My trailer is a 20 ft enclosed flat nose. No issues but my previous was a v nose 16 and it always pulled funny. Lots of sway or at least movement but I traded it for the 20 just because it was bigger. They both pulled best at 60mph. Tim
It's not the vee nose, with a longer trailer you you could position the car for correct balance, the bigger trailer probably had stiffer side wall tires and get a equlizer hitch with a sway control. I had a 16 foot camper (used) that pulled great but the tires needed replaced. I put 4 ply radials on it thinking it wouldn't rattle the dishes as bad, the highway wasn't wide enough to keep it in the road. Once you get a hole punched in the air a longer does not pull that much harder, it just takes more room to do corners. A head wind with a vee nose or a side wind pulls ok, it,s a corner wind from the front that drags.
Just don't worry about a trailer...
You can put your T at my house almost right up the road just off Indian Rocks Rd. at Ulmerton when you locate out to sky country...Your T has gotten too accustomed to never being frozen solid and is too old to just take the plunge by immersion
I'll offer to keep it limber and loose and high level of maintenance so that when you visit west coast central Florida you can take it out and play. No problem where I'm at, I can open the garage from my smart phone from anywhere in the world so just give a call...(ha-ha)
(PS...Don't forget to leave the title in an envelope, just in case I need to do some paperwork for you at the DMV...)
For what it's worth...(not much) I pull a 18' flat nose. bulb nose Wells Cargo Auto Hauler, standard hitch, with a 2016 Ford Expedition. My T's range from a 14 touring to a 26 touring. As long as I get the majority of the weight forward of the duals the only "sway", if you wish to call it that" comes from cross winds and the suction created by overtaking 18 wheelers. I pull at 60/65 mph. Fuel mpg drops from 18/20 hwy to 10. I use premium fuel pulling, the cheap stuff otherwise. J.
thanks for the offer...HAHA
and to all:
thank you very much for the advice and opinions. Much to think about.
When are u headed west again?