Here are pictures of the mangled oil slinger or babbitt?? that broke in the 1912 engine last week. I do not now what the Babbitt is, but maybe you can make this out anyway.
I laid under the engine so was not abkle to get a good picture.
Saturday I will drive it to Kevin Prus and take it out of the engine. At which time I can take better pictures if anyone cannot make out what this is.
Post a picture of another rod that is not messed up. Dan
Broken rod bolt
The bolt could simply have come loose. The babbit looks like it was fine before the damage. I noticed the rod bolts are modern.
Yep. Looks like the rod bolt let go or the nut loosened up. The other nut looks really loose as well
What a shame, so much damage from such a simple part of a nut/bolt.
All can be fixed, block and all, just $$$'s
And lets hope the next engine re-builder takes care in assembly, I can see that good rod in the photo is in backwards!!
Are those self-adjusting rod bolts?
Another testimony for rod nuts with cotter pins.
The profile of the nut with the rounded top looks like a self locking nut to me. Is it possible that when mismatched with a bolt with the wrong thread pitch, it could loosen up? I agree with James, cotter pins might have prevented this tragedy.
That is a real shame, particularly on an early block. I can't figure out though how the nut can get that loose without it making noise for a long time. Did the threads strip when the other bolt came out maybe? Is the other bolt broken, stripped or (hard to believe) did it just have a loose nut?
Was it knocking for a ways or did it just let go? Sad for a early block. Tim
The babbitt is the bearing surface that is inside the crankshaft end of the rod. It is poured molten into the rod and then "fitted" to the crankshaft for a .0015 clearance. Did you find the other rod bolt and nut in the engine? From the looks of the photos the rod bolt may have broken or the nut loosened and came off. Once this happened if the other bolt was still holding somewhat it probably allowed the rod or rod cap to come off the crankshaft and punch the hole in the block.
In the photo the babbitt is the gray surface inside the rod big end, you can see the line where it meets the actual steel of the rod.
Hope that this helps. I think that you should try to save the block. There was a thread several years ago that showed how an early block that had been smashed by a scrap man's sledge hammer was fixed in Australia, I think.
On my wifes 26 touring engine when we got the new rod bolts tight they would strip so we removed them and used the old style with cotter pins. I would not use those self locking nuts in such an important spot if you paid me to do it.
That's why I use new grade 8 bolts nuts and SAE size flat washers. I grind a flat on the head and good to go with a torque wrench and a bit of red Loktite. For more than 20 years