My 1910 was missing its rear under seat door. In the interest of making the car right I spent a couple of hours making one this week.
Started off buying poplar lumber in various widths from the local Home Depot. Ford likely would have had maple and ash and perhaps some poplar originally.
I also got some poplar for the stringers.
The opening checked square with a dimension of 13 1/4" across fore / aft. I decided to cut the boards at 13 1/8 to allow 1/16" clearance all around.
Some folks might use a miter saw, I prefer to saw the boards a bit long and then true them on the sander disc square for a nice finish on the ends.
I cut the stringers to length and mocked up the door and clamped it together in the car to assure it was true and square.
Then I drilled the nail holes with a #60 bit, pulled the clamps and put a bead of wood glue between the boards before nailing.
I clamped some extra pieces of lumber to the work bench to make an alignment fence. Then laid out all the nail locations.
With the locations marked I could proceed with nailing all the boards in place. A stripe of wood glue is applied under each board. The boards left about a 5/8" total gap, so I eyeballed a 1/16" gap for each boards placement before nailing it.
A 1 1/4" finger pull hole was drilled halfway thru the top, then the door flipped and finished the hole from the bottom side to make zero splinters on the finished sides.
Some hinges were procured from Elliot's hardware. The phillips screws went in the trash.
The finished door works great.
Looks great! Did the shape of the hinges change over the years?
Ford used various body suppliers who undoubtedly used various suppliers for the hardware that they used. It is also true that some of these doors never had hinges originally, they were just laid in place below the seat cushion.
The ones I used are obviously not original, but they will look period correct after the body is painted the correct dark green color, including those brass plated hinges.
Nice wood work for a rivet pounder
Royce.. Do you have the formula for Brewster Green? What make paint? Gloss paint or flat with a clear coat? I want to paint my 1910 this year. It is common black now.
I received a painted sample from Jem Bowkett. I am going to get a couple of quarts mixed to paint my car's body. Will send you the formula.
Would you be so kind as to send a copy of the formula for the Brewster Green to me as well? I had a formula through NAPA that is no longer available. I need to paint my 1910 touring.
I will post the formula on here when I get it. Planning to use Dupont single stage acrylic enamel.
Nice work Royce and I really liked the part where you said the Phillips head screws went out n the trash. I hate even going in a hardware store because you get flogged by employees trying to help but they get in the way and try to convince you Phillips are better blah blah. I try to tell them they didn't have Phillips screws in 1914 and they look at me like I m stupid. I'm a grown man I can find my own hardware. Once again nice work.
Nice Royce! I did this to mine and went crazy trying to get it just right. I might do it again using your method.
If I had time I would take all these tips and tricks and put them into a Tips and Trick for Model T Restoration video.