1914 touring car has a problem with transmission, it has a ruckstell rear axle that was just opened and inspected all less than perfect parts were replaced and car has always started just fine, last few times we started it, we had a hard time cranking it. We actually had to push start it. So we pulled the engine and the transmission was "loose" when I say that I mean the bolts holding it to the crankshaft were tight but the bushings were worn? So we pulled the tranny off and put on a spare tranny that I bought off eBay a few years ago it was wrapped in cosmoline paper and it seemed to be rebuilt, I bought 3 of them from the same guy and the other two are in my other model t's running just fine. So we pull start the t with the new tranny ( we pull started it because while we had the engine out we pulled a shim or two out of the connecting rods) it started just fine day one and we drove it around and had a great neutral. The next day we went to start it and same problem " no neutral" ? We loosened the bands and checked the clutch adjustment, and backed off the clutch arms and still no neutral, the only thing we can figure out is the housing that the clutch plates ride in are worn and the clutches are not releasing? But two totally different trannys with exactly the same problem is not coincidence any suggestions?
Is it the same transmission cover you used with both transmissions? You mentioned you made a clutch adjustment. Did you adjust the clutch plates and outside linkage on the low speed pedal or just the clutch plates only.
The adjustment that's made with the linkage sometimes can be tricky when the linkage is worn.
Just a thought.
New uni joint fitted?
if so I can give a probable reason, if not then it's something else.
Adjusted outside linkage loose den clutch fingers till almost too loose then tightened just a little...linkage is not that worn changed bolt in adjustment with little longer bolt still no neutral same universal joint ...didn't think of that, b
Ut when we pulled the engine we checked it and it was ok? What else? Still can't figure it out....
One thought, could the heat from running have gummed up the disks with say something like the grease used to assemble it, got hot then solidified when cold.
Could be the tangs on the brake drum, no amount of outside adjustment will fix the problem if the tangs in the brake drum are scored up so badly that the disks get hung up and will not release. May just have gotten lucky the first time around.
Other point, (running engine) you really should not have to tow it to start after a rod adjustment. The babbitt is broke (running engine) in and just needed a take up for .0015-.002 clearance. Contrary to what some may say, you do not have to remove the same number of shims from both sides. You can remove say two on one side of the rod and one on the other. If it's so tight you can't crank it then you now have to wear in the babbitt again. A bit snug may be one thing but...
It's funky in my mind to worry about the wear ridges as the clutch drum (in my '19 engine) is SHOT with ridges everywhere yet the old (and the "new" turbo clutch) released/releases perfectly.
I had a problem with no neutral after rebuild. The pins that were on the ring that pushes on the clutch and goes through the holes that the fingers push on were peened over from wear and would not let the clutch release. Always fit the ring and make sure the 4 pins move freely through the plate that holds the clutch fingers.
Now that you have "adjusted" things, it might be hard to find the exact cause of the problem without disassembling everything.
This is what I would have suggested doing before any adjustments had been made since it worked the day before. Put the rear wheels on jack stands and start up the engine. Then pull the parking brake lever to the neutral position and use the low pedal and reverse pedal. If it goes in low or reverse without killing the engine, your clutch is working. That shifting of gears should loosen the disks. Whether or not that would work now depends on how the clutch is adjusted at this time.
When you park the car, leave the parking brake in the forward position. This will force out the oil between the clutch plates. Sometimes if the oil is between the plates it will cause a drag on the clutch.
ok heres what we found outr... aluminum hogshead is a little different (thicker) than others, we put kevlar bands in with detachable ears, so from what i'm told the combination of all three being thicker it causes the drums to "bind" causing hard neutral... solution grind down ears on detachable bands to stop bind... I'll let you all know what happens after a little "grinding"