Headed to Auburn next weekend. Have managed to borrow an aluminum open trailer with a nose cone. My questions: What do I need to prepare for? Should I remove the seat bottom and the floor boards? What about the coil box lid or oil fill cap? I assume I travel with the top down and everything else secured? Any suggestions would be appreciated. 1,000 miles with little experience...a bit anxious. Thanks for any help avoiding the obvious pitfalls.
When I first got my open trailer, I got the dire floorboard and seat cushions blowing away never to be seen again warnings as well. Thought I would take a chance the first time. All that happened after a day of highway driving was that the sloping floorboards in the front of my touring vibrated in such a way that they slid down slightly. After that, I put a couple of bricks on them and they were fine. Once, when I was about to leave home, I noticed a wadded-up paper towel on the rear floor. Meant to throw it away but forgot. Got on the highway and (as I always did) stopped a rest stop about 45 miles away just to do a walk-around and be sure everything was still secure. I had been driving 65-70 with the top down and the paper towel was still on the floor. I am willing to be corrected by someone who has had a floorboard or seat cushion blow out of the car, but I have seen no evidence of the danger. JMHO.
I did remove the seat bottom and put the top back on my roadster before a 3 hour trip at 70. No issues no problem on a open trailer b but I am definitely going by a enclosed trailer 8x 20 to haul my T s and A s in when going on the highway. We are going to a show 3 hours away in September and I will pull the 26 to that show but I will have the enclosed before that trip. Tim
Take the loose things out. Later cars don't lose things as easily as early cars and Speedsters. I use an enclosed trailer because parts collectors worked on my brass cars in the early 60's.
I only have an open trailer. I've driven a lot of miles with it carrying my '15 Touring. Loose things blow out. Parts of the car don't. The basics are: Lower the top and the windshield, and cross the tie-down straps. If you don't, the car can "walk" when you hit bumps. Also, cross the safety chains when you hitch up. It keeps the tongue from hitting the ground in the unlikely event that comes off the ball.
The one time that I used an open trailer to go to a tour, it down poured for the entire 6 hour trip. Made it there in time for the afternoon departure, but the coils were soaked and the car wouldn't run til the next day. Summer weather can be pretty heavy. A buddy and I bought a used 30 foot enclosed trailer together right afterwards. We share it.
What body style do you have?
This question is asked often, so there's lots of info already available. Here's a start.
Several years ago I saw a brass touring at Chickasha that actually did suffer a broken windshield from from high speed towing, so it does happen. I don't have that worry. With my voracious gas hog I observe a self-imposed 55 mph speed limit.
Most trailer tires you'll find are rated at 55mph.
I also find that to be the perfect trailering speed.
Not a bad idea to put an extra tie down around your top so the cover does not blow off.
Thanks Dan and all the rest of you for your thoughts and threads to other conversations. I am trailering a 26 roadster pick up. I appreciate all the feedback. Hope to meet some of you next week.
I would not cross your tie down straps, if one comes loose they all can come loose if the strap slides the load to the side because of the side pull. I drove tow truck for 33 years and saw it happen more that once. I tie mine down with wheel straps and pull it toward the center so that it doesn't pull on the radius rod attachment points. I also turn off the gas and remove the key(found it on the floor once) It has also been suggested to tie down the top, if you don't have a top boot , shrink wrap works well.
Bruce is right if you are not tying down using wheel straps, you MUST cross your straps front & back. I have close to 3 million accident-free transport miles over the last 30+ years transporting classics/ hot rods, etc. Conservatively around 2000 cars many valued in the 6 figure range. If you use quality straps & tie it down properly, they will not come loose. Check them every time you stop!
I always remove all my lights when trailering open. I leave the headlights on when I'm using an enclosed. Mine isn't a T so maybe they fasten differently.
With a trailer like Bruce and Dennis having receivers on the side it is easy to make a drop in cross bar for the trailer. This serves two purposes. It will stop you driving over the front and onto the drawbar!!!
Secondly, it will stop you stretching your T, tying it down front and back. With the tyres against the cross bar, the hold downs fitted over the axle beam simply hold the car against the cross bar. The rear can be tied down as you wish.
My cross bar is mounted on various pairs of bent uprights to allow cars of different weights to be loaded with optimal weight distribution.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.