Dash board mounted fuel enrichment knob setting

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Dash board mounted fuel enrichment knob setting
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeff reissner on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 01:53 pm:

very soon i will be starting and learning how to drive my 21. I know that the dash mounted enrichment setting has been fiddled with alot while its been sitting. Can anyone tell me how many turns back form completely screwed down would be a good setting to start with. As always thank you.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wendell Gallagher on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 02:04 pm:

I was told to start with one turn and adjust after it starts... once you are driving, find a flat road and maintain a steady pace, then turn the adjustment in until it misses and note the position, then turn the adjustment out until it misses and note the position... your correct mixture will be very close to half way in-between.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 02:06 pm:

One turn would probably work for starting. Be gentle when closing it - the needle is easily damaged, but can also be easily fixed if you have a ring shaped damage from bottoming out too hard: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTiStUTU9IE
(Thanks to Steve Jelf for the video :-) )


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George n Los Angeles CA on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 02:08 pm:

To start over just turn it clockwise all the way till it stops then back about 1 to 1 and half turns counter clockwise. Once you get it running you readjust when the engine is warm to fine tune.
When Martin Vowell and I got called out to help Derrick Pang with his new toy he was haveing starting problems. Found out someone (?) had the knob turned out 4 complete turns. (bit rich eh?) Turned al the way down clockwise and backed it out 1.5 fired right up.
George n L.A.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeff reissner on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 03:06 pm:

thanks all went out to the garage and checked. it was backed out almost to the point of removal. So I might s well ask is there any other adjustments i should check before the first start?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 03:25 pm:

Check so you have fresh oil running out of the lower oil petcock in the crank case at the fly wheel area. Preferably dripping from the top petcock, then you have enough oil. If it doesn't look good, change it. Fill at the front RH corner of the engine. Look inside the timer in the same area - clean it and oil if it's one of the many types that needs oiling.

Check so you have water up to the Ford text in the radiator.

Open the drain under the carburetor with a bowl under. Open the fuel from the tank. Do you have good flow from under the carb for at least a minute? Does the gas look and smell OK?
Close the drain under the carb. Does the gas stop dripping? If it doesn't, knock carefully on the carb with some tool.. It just might stop :-)

Pull the handbrake to straight up position and see so the LH clutch pedal lowers half way = neutral. Chock the wheels, lift the rear wheels if unsure about the condition of the hand brake quadrant and if it holds the hand brake securely when everything starts to rattle.

Push the ignition lever up fully and open the throttle slightly. Crank a couple of turns with the choke closed. Release the choke, put the ignition on bat and start the car.
Pull down the ignition lever when it starts until it runs the best.

Flip over to mag after it starts to see if it'll run better there. Most does - if everything is in order.

If you're adventurous you may try starting on mag - but then maybe you'll have to pull down the ignition lever a few notches first. Never pull down when starting on "bat" - a bent starter axle or a broken arm may be the result.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Hagerty on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 03:33 pm:

Jeff, I'm curious of the way the radiator appears in your profile photo. Is it a distortion/illusion or is there actually something else there?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeff reissner on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 04:02 pm:

David, That is just a weird camera distortion on the grill.
Roger, As far as the Handbrake goes it is functional but the quadrant is somewhat worn so I will be replacing that. The only problem I see there is that the piece of tin that acts as a spring between the handbrake lever and the brake release lever is broken off. So unless somebody sells that piece of tin Ill have to make one or figure something else out. As it is now I have to pull the handbrake back and then pull back the release handle manually so the pawl will lock into the quadrant.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 05:09 pm:

I have been told by others turn it clockwise until it starts and turn it counterclockwise 1- 1 1/2 turns. That gets it close. You will find the best spot out on the road. I think the carbs all have a happy spot. Smoothest running and best mileage spot. Tim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 05:50 pm:

Jeff - Don't be too quick to consider changing out the quadrant for the hand brake lever. Not saying you won't have to do that, but it is quite a job as it is riveted to the frame and in a rather awkward place to do that sort of work. Consider this:

I honestly believe that more often than not, the main reason that the hand brake won't "hold" is more due to the wear of the working end ("pointy end") of the pawl. I'd start by either sharpening the no doubt rounded and worn end of the pawl as that may make "all the difference". Or, you might want to just order a new one as they don't cost that much. Also, there is a new design spring for the pawl that is (in my opinion) a much better design than the original and those also cost very little.

If a new or sharpened pawl does not "do it", then consider a new quadrant. Actually, and some may disagree, but I'm not sure that a bit of careful grinder work (say Dremel for instance) might allow "restoration" of the original quadrant too, however, it probably has to come off of the frame to do this anyway, so replacement might make more sense.

I'm getting "long-winded" here again as I usually do (sorry....) but a couple more comments here are in order:

You're very smart in making sure that the "pawl/quadrant" assembly works properly and reliably Jeff, as an emergency brake lever that won't hold is much more than an inconvenience, it's a real safety hazard, as a lever that jumps out of position while engine is idling now becomes an unintentionally moving car in "high gear"!

Also, it is an extremely good practice to squeeze the latch portion of the emergency brake lever "BEFORE" pulling the lever back, as that rapid "clicking noise" merely indicates more wear on the teeth of the quadrant and the point of the pawl.

One last thing,....IMHO,...."emergency brake lever" is proper Ford terminology, but I happen to think it should have been called a "hand brake lever", because that certainly tends to describe how that lever should be used. Of course it can and should be used in an "emergency" but even with the improved hand brake shoes which have friction material on them as opposed to original type bare metal brake shoes,....well, let's just say that in a real emergency where any speed at all is involved, the hand brake really isn't usually much help!

Sorry for the length of this Jeff, but is IS an important issue,....hope this helps,....harold


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeff reissner on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 07:34 pm:

Thanks Harold. Im guessing I still have the old style all metal brake shoes. Where can I get the ones with friction material on them?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas Mullin on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 07:52 pm:

Don't forget to chock one or two front wheels. Your parking brake may not be enough to contain your car when it starts. Think of a horse looking in your pocket for a sugar cube. There is a lot of drag between the 25 clutch disks. Once your oil warms up you may not need the chock again until it is cold.

Putting in too much water is not a problem. As your car heats up, it will expel any excess water out the overflow tube.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 02:46 am:

Jeff - the vendors sells a replacement spring that works better than the standard brake release lever spring. Ok, they sell the original style too, but it isn't necessary when you have fitted a spring between the pawl's back end and the shaft. You can fabricate something out of a spring you already have and a piece of bailing wire if you can't wait for shipping :-)

https://www.modeltford.com/item/3463R.aspx

As most of the accessories, it's been around since back when they were new:

hand brake spring


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 02:54 am:

Jeff - Lang's has everything that you will need, both for your emergency brakes (lined brake shoes (#2557KIT) and they also have the handbrake lever latch spring (#3463), the new and improved style spring for the pawl (#3463R), also the cast pawl (#3458E) or (#3458) and the pawl pin (3459).


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 02:56 am:

Roger - I don't believe it! We did it again! While I was looking up part numbers, you answered Jeff's questions!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 03:17 am:

Great minds think alike, Harold ;) :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eugene Story on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 10:50 am:

W hen I start a car I don't know or a new motor over hall or a calb. over hall I pull the car out in the open, put wifie in the car to turn off the key in case of a runaway but hope I can jump in to do final adjustments with it still running.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeff reissner on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 10:53 am:

you guys are the best i will order up those parts it will save me time over making my own thanks i have another question (actually dozens) how full should the radiator be? Since there is no overflow Im not sure if I should top it off or leave room for expansion.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeff reissner on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 10:53 am:

you guys are the best i will order up those parts it will save me time over making my own thanks i have another question (actually dozens) how full should the radiator be? Since there is no overflow Im not sure if I should top it off or leave room for expansion.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeff reissner on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 10:54 am:

you guys are the best i will order up those parts it will save me time over making my own thanks i have another question (actually dozens) how full should the radiator be? Since there is no overflow I'm not sure if I should top it off or leave room for expansion.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 11:39 am:

You should have an overflow in the radiator - it's not pressurized, so if the water expands over the level of the overflow pipe right in the filler pipe it'll run out.

I wrote "up to the Ford text" above - that's the text on the shroud in the upper tank area. As long the coolant is above the tubes in the cell pack you'll be fine. If it's much above the baffle that obstructs the vision about halfway down the top tank, it'll likely expand and run out. Just try it out where it'll settle and check often.

When you know it holds water, it's time to change to a antifreeze / water mix for rust prevention reasons (if you haven't got frost problems during winter time)


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