I bought a Center door that was badly burned in a fire then sat outside in the weather for 5 year or so. I have done complete rewooding on some tourings and roadsters but nothing like this. There is enough wood in the floor and rear seat for patterns. One easier item is the main sills. They will much easier than other Ts because they are only a little over one inch thick.
I have removed much of the siding so far and it appears to be in pretty good condition and straight. I am really having fun with this project so far. A lot of my friends and I were wondering what the babbit in the motor would be like and I think it is perfect. In fact I will reuse the mains and put new pistons in.
The gas tanks was pretty well shot but I have found another that I will use.
The door post will be the hardest item to duplicate.
In this picture I have removed the cowl and front sides. The were hundreds of small nails holding the cowl and front sides.
Wonderful that you will resurrect this one that otherwise would likely be lost forever!
I was wondering why you were advertising WTB center-door seat. Now I know.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Bringing a car back from ashes the only proper name for the car now would be "The Phoenix"
I'm sure it'll be top notch, like the rest of your work.
Dave: was the engine rebuilt in it or was it pretty much original. Sometimes the mains in original engines are still good and repouring new babbitt isn't necessary. Did it have the older heavier rods in it?
Some folks would have taken the car to a swap meet and let it go for parts. Glad you're saving this one. Good deal!
Thank you for working to save another T. From the photos it appears that the wood seat frame that the rear seat bottom cushion sat on was not damaged as much as the blackened side wood. By any chance did you look to see if there was a body number stamped into the wood or a body number tag attached to the front of the seat frame?
You already know that Joe Fellin did and excellent multi-part series that was published in the Vintage Ford on the restoration of his Centerdoor. It has a lot of great photos and descriptions of what he did. But for others reading this that might not know that, I wanted to add it to the thread. It shows many details of the wood frame and also discusses how he fit the body panels etc. That and having your other Centerdoor to compare with should help you a lot. To develop an accurate set of wood plans for a Centerdoor would take a lot of extra work. But if you take photos of the wood parts you make and add an open tape measure next to them, it could be a good help to someone else in the future who might want to tackle rewooding a Centerdoor. (There may even be an “app” to help do that – but my rotary dial telephone store doesn’t stock any apps like that.)
And from a safety standpoint – do you happen to know what caused the original fire? I.e. is it something we should avoid such as “a gas hot water heater in the same garage as Model Ts that tend to leak gasoline” etc.?
Please keep us posted on your progress and thank you again for working to bring it back to the road.
Hap l9l5 cut off
Hap: The owners claim it was lightning hitting a tin roof???? There was a 13 speedster sitting next the center door. I understand that while the 13 was burning, the gas tank got too hot, exploded and shot gas all over the center door. I wish I had bought the center door 5 years ago. The nuts and bolts are so far gone from both the fire and then sitting outdoors for so long have made them ONE UNIT. I have had to grind some of them off with a side grinder. Fortunately I only use 6 point sockets so that helps force most of the nuts and bolts. 12 point would only round them off and I would have to grind more of them off.
dave! i guess you dont know about the fire& water way to take bolts a part. heat them red hot the Bolt to. then hose them with cold water.then you can take them off with your fingers. charley
Dave, have you tried the turbo sockets? Great for rounded off and frozen nuts, work like an ease out only made like a socket. KGB
Dave, Good work! Where do you get the energy for a project like this. WOW
Charley Shaver: I use heat and water to free a lot of nuts and bolts, probably more than you have seen. I guess you don't know that there are a lot of places that you can not use heat and water. Take a look someday.
All four wheels were also burned. If I can get this picture you will see one of them. When we loaded the Center Door it has some other wheels on it.
an old black smith showed me about fire & water when i was 14 i am 73 now . not much i have not taken apart. my best mod t tool is a rosebud & a garden hose. cast iron an all.ha.ha. charley
Interesting to me was when I took the motor apart the transmission had a 26 wide band drum. The hogs head was still early and the band was narrow. You can see that the band only worked on the forward part of the drum leaving the rest with a dark color.
I assume that after the fire and water method are used to remove frozen bolts they are no longer any good since they've lost their temper/been annealed?
very few blots on a ford were anything but dead soft!!!!. charley
Would you keep us inundated with photos as you do your Center Door?
I've a thousand questions as my late Center Door is far rougher than yours.... :-)
You HAVE main sills (main sill assemblies).
I'm kinda jealous. :-)
Please keep us up on your progress. I remember when I was in high school seeing a 1926 Rolls Royce Silver Ghost that was burned in a similar fashion. Aluminum body panels on wood frame. Chassis was in fair shape all that was left of the body was the lower stub of the passenger side door pillars.
They had the engine running a week after the fire and it was fine.
The cause was smoking while gassing up. 😳