I have small question about the mixture. I have rebuilt engine and now new coils, what a difference compared to old coils. Thanks to Ron Patterson for those.
Should the engine stall if i put the mixture closed? I have read that mostly 1 to 1,5 rotations to open is normal mixture? If I turn the mixture close, car runs quit normal and I think the best running is when its open about 0,8 turns.
The car is 1923 Fordor, also my passenger side backseat window has a small crack. How do I remove the upholstery? Also from the pilar between backdoor and window? There I have (I think originally) interior light switch put its somehow jammed.
The last question: My ruckstell rear is leaking to driver side brake drum. What special tools I need to remove the wheel and bearing?
Mixture: They're all different. 1½ turns is normal, but I have one that runs best at 1. If the car runs with the mixture closed, I suspect it's not really closed. Maybe the needle needs this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTiStUTU9IE
Rear wheel leak: The best way to remove the wheel is with a puller.
You can pull out the bearing with a piece of wire or welding rod with a little hook bent on the end.
On the first question about the carburetor, the adjustment of one to one and one half turn is good for the Holly and Kingston carburetors. But if you have another carburetor on the car it could be different. A Model A carburetor will run with the needle all the way in.
If you are running either a Holly or Kingston, you might have too high float level, or internal leak somewhere in the carb or you would not run with the needle closed. 0.8 turns would be OK if it does not run too rich or leak gas out the carburetor. So probably all right.
You have a Finnish name. Are you located in Finland or in the U.S.A.? There are two reasons I ask. One is because the carburetor adjustment is different for high altitudes and most of Finland is low altitude, but some places in U.S.A. have very high altitude. The other is that there are many local clubs in U.S.A. where you could find someone in your area to help you.
I have no experience on upholstery of the fordor sedan, so will pass on that question.
The Ruckstell axle should have oil up to the filler plug. If it is above the plug drain out the excess. That would also indicate that you might have engine oil running down the enclosed driveshaft in to the differential.
There is a felt seal at the outer end of the axle shaft which can be worn and cause a leak. There is also an inner felt seal between outer bearing sleeve and the axle tube where the end plate is riveted to the tube. In order to replace that seal, you would need to remove the bearing and the bearing sleeve. Then remove the inner seal(if one exists) and put in a new seal. You can buy from one of the suppliers a neoprene inner seal. You put the tight edge of the seal toward the center of the differential. Sometimes a little must be ground from the inner edge of the bearing sleeve to make it fit after you place the inner seal. The outer seal is much easier to replace than the inner one.
First I would check the oil level in the differential and drain out any excess. Then grease the outer bearing with much grease. Sometimes that alone will stop the leaking, because the thick wheel bearing grease will keep the oil from reaching the outer seal.
The club has published a booklet on the Ruckstell axle which has much good information and illustrations which will help you to visualize what I have attempted to explain.
The carburetor is about 10 years old NH, maybe NOS? And the needle is fine, no such marks on it. How tight the needle connection thing should be? I mean the part that goes on before needle.
Yes, I live in Finland. I tested and if I turn the mixture more engine starts, whats the right word.. Missfiring and running uneven, also sounds like its only running with 3 cylinder.
Are the ruckstell seals same as original? If I order from langs or snyders? Should I first take it a part and check the bearing also? Is it worth to change to as well? Oil level in the rear is correct but after driving oil is coming out..
To start the car, I open the mixture needle about 1-1/2 turns and pull the choke. Once it's running and warms up I have the needle open about 1 turn. If your car runs well at 0.8 turns open that is fine.
I would recommend Langs for parts and advice.
There is a neoprene seal that installs behind the Hyatt bearing that is very good. You should wrap the axle keyway with masking tape before you install it. That way the keyway won't cut the seal lip when you slip it over the axle. You can use the standard Ford washer felt seal and cup as the outer seal. Pack the wheel bearing with grease before you install it.
I look at lean/rich this way each time I get another car....you can't run 'by the numbers' as they don't work.
I get the car started cold and overly rich , let it idle about 500-600 and then slowly turn the mixture screw CW by 1/8ths until it sputters and then add back in the last 1/8 CCW...
Then I go for a ride and hold it in low for a wee bit more than normal before shifting and if it shifts smooth all is good...if it sputters I open it up by 1/8 turn CCW until it stops sputtering...this is now the 'run' position for best fuel mixture and fuel economy. I mark the fork by bending it that the top bend points to the dash, or go with a knob top that I mark the as smooth 12 o'clock on...
I then open 1/4 turn for cold starts...then move to mark at top for running...and don't worry about anything...been doing this for near 40 years and have yet to find an issue......
Both of mine run at 3/4 turn open. I richen by opening 1/4 to 1/2 additional turns to start on a cold engine, but lean back down to 3/4 after only a minute or so of running.
I solved the mixture problem, carburetor was put together wrong way..
Now I am having another problem, car idles nicely and starts really good. But power is gone, it cant climb small hills and it doesnt go as fast as used to. Can that be caused lack of gas? I am living really hilly area so should I consider fuel pump?