I am thinking about putting dielectric grease on my coil box connections but want to ask the group 1st. I have found the connections to become loose occasionally.
Also, I intend to purchase one brand-new coil as a baseline before sending each one out to be checked and possibly rebuilt individually not as a tail number
Some of the new coils are not made properly. None of the new coils come set properly to my knowledge. I know that as a consumer your expectations would be that new is better than used, but such is not the case with most Model T parts.
I recommend that you call Ron Patterson Eight Five Nine 881 four 221 and discuss the options. He can supply properly rebuilt coils and also can discuss honestly with you the problems with any of the new coils.
I sent all 4 of my coils in at once and when I got them back it ran like a different car. Thanks Ron Patterson. While the coils are out you can rebuild your coil box. I soldered the contacts to the new bolts. Then you never will have problems because if it's not right that coil box will worry you to death.ni think grease would just make a mess and not accomplish anything. But get an extra coil just in case after many miles you might need one just to be safe. Just my thoughts.
Also if you send them 1 at a time you will pay the post office enough in shipping to buy another coil. I think I put 6
In a flat rate box.
I have joined the T community largely through the graces of the Antique Auto Ranch.
Your post reminds me how fortunate we around Spokane are to have this wonderful T
resource. It started with a neophyte greenhorn coming in and asking stupid questions,
to buying a T, to asking a lot more specific stupid questions that has led to learning a
generalized repair and maintenance outlook for T's, and an ever-expanding mental vault
worth of technical stuff, like how to dial in coils, linkage, coil boxes, wiring, body mounting ....
... you name it.
For those who didn't just have this drop into their lap like it did for me, wondering how
to "re-invent the wheel" must be frustrating indeed. The Ranch is just a phone call away,
and exactly 37 minutes away at the lightning speed of a low geared TT in calm seas with
a full wind in my sails.
I cannot recommend calling them enough, and wish everyone had such a place to commune
like those in this area do.
To your comments .... A properly fitting coilbox lid will not allow the coils to disengage
from the contacts, if the contacts are properly sprung. A Fun Projects kit and some directions
on how to refresh some of the old hardware will cure your coilbox ills and nix the need for
a stop gap fix like dielectric grease.
Rebuilding of coils is not rocket science, but helpful oversight and direction will make
understanding what a person is doing a whole lot easier. Again, I am lucky and just asked
and was shown/helped. Several people professionally rebuild coils, but sending them off
and reinstalling fresh ones doesn't help a guy understand what is what and how the system
works. Again, I would suggest a call to my favorite expendable dollar spending venue and
see what they say.
I would not use dielectric grease on any coil box contacts as it may divert the high voltage spark to go places other than the spark plug.
The Model T ignition system consists of several components which contribute to overall engine performance. Each component must be properly maintained and functioning properly for optimal engine performance. Good, clean, tight electrical connections are just one of the components: Battery/Magneto wires to coil box, Coil box contacts to Coils, coil box to timer wires, timer wires to timer and coil box to spark plug wires to spark plugs. The coil box wood must be properly prepared and maintained or it will divert/degrade the high voltage spark from the spark plugs. Many, including myself, opt to replace the wood with plastic that is a much better high voltage insulator because it does not absorb moisture like the wood can. Properly functioning battery/magneto. The timer contacts must be well maintained and provide electrical engine ground contact via properly functioning roller/brush/flapper that is properly synchronized with their respective piston position via CAM/Crank gear. Spark plugs must be void of conductive carbon residue and properly gaped, the coils must have good primary and secondary winding/insulation, capacitor and coil points must be properly adjusted for the same firing time to achieve optimal Model T engine ignition performance.
My car lacks a coil box lid, so my search begins.
I have also purchased new wiring for the timer.
I will definitely call the coil expert but I don't want to give up driving it while I wait for shipping, so maybe he can ship me a set beforehand.
Chris, later coil boxes had a divider to keep the box in shape. If your box does not have this divider you may want to shim the coils to ensure good contact. The lid is useful to keep the important bottom contact in place, similarly.
Now I know why I found some wood chips in my coil box. They were shims.
Chris, Find a good used lid. The repro's I've seen are crap.
Thank You for the good advice
I will remove the repro lid from my shopping cart on Lang's.
Used lid search begins.
On this repop lid subject .... I semi-recently did a coilbox rebuild, when my truck began chuffing
and burping. Turned out to be a broken valve, but I found a decent, rebuildable core and a blasted-
out mess for any missing parts and cleaned it all up, combined the parts, and installed a Fun Projects
kit to make a nice one. I could not find an original lid, so purchased a repop, so I could keep my
original coilbox together as an unmolested original unit for reference.
Well, the coilbox rebuild did not help, and so more work revealed the broken valve and that fix is
another story, But once fixed, the truck went pretty good, for a spell .... then began giving me chuffing
issues again. Turned out the repop lid had come loose, allowing the coils to vibrate upward off the
contacts and the engine would miss. If it came even looser, it would short across the coil contacts
and backfire. The easy fix was to beat it down tight with my fist and get those clips holding it down
good. But it kept coming loose.
Last week I was running short on amusement for this problem and had since found an original lid,
which was tossed in back with all my other junk, to be put away "later". Well, there it was and I had
pounded that repop lid back on 3 times on this single trip out, so I pulled over and swapped the two.
Made the rest of the trip home without it coming loose again and been out 3 times since with no issues.
While the repop looks good and seems to fit the box OK, something is off in the latch fit, to where my
vibration machine shakes it free to an annoying level of frequency.
Great story, Burger!
Forgive me, but I'm going to borrow this epic phrase!
"running short on amusement for this problem"
Chris: As Corey stated in his post that the car ran like a different car is true.
When I got my '19 ready to run, we pulled it up and down our road and it would run for a few seconds and die. Sent the coil to Ron Patterson and when they were re-installed it would start on a quarter turn on the hand crank. The 1.3 amps is very important to make "T" run like a rabbit.
Ron Patterson's number above is no longer in service.
Try sending a PM thru the board;
PM to him sent