I was putting together my driveshaft yesterday but one line of the instructions confused me. (Which usually just means Iím missing something obvious to everyone else)
The directions say:
"It is normal for the roller bearing cone end to be tighter on the shaft than the brass sleeve end. (it is) The pinion gear MUST PULL the cone bearing into final position for proper fit."
I donít understand that last sentence. How does the pinion gear pull anything? It is stuck on the driveshaft taper. It isnít going anywhere and isnít attached to anything but the driveshaft and woodruff key.
Isnít the roller bearing cone just tapped (it is a VERY tight fit) on to a distance of 1 3/8" from the end of the axle and stays there?
John Regan, correct me if I'm mistaken, but the point of that instruction is to ensure that there is intimate contact (NO GAP) between the back of the pinion gear and the bearing when the pinion gear nut has been tightened down.
When you install the pinion bearing, don't drive it on all the way, let the tightening of the pinion nut push the bearing onto the shaft the rest of the way.
Just FYI, I would suspect that John is on the MTFCI tour in New York all week, and might not be checking in on the Forum. So you might have to wait for a reply.
John Is on tour.
The answer is to remove the nut pinion and key. Place the lock sleeve on the shaft, next the spool with the Timken end towards the pinion end. Place the Timken cone on the drive shaft as far as it will go. Press the bearing enough to allow the pinion and nut to start, forcing the bearing onto the shaft. Cut/grind the key per John's instructions, remove the pinion, install the key and torque the nut to fully bottom the backside of the pinion hard against the Timken bearing. Follow Johns instructions to adjust the bearing preload with the lock sleeve.
Just had another customer call and say his Ruckstell was howling. The only thing that will make a rear end howell is insufficient clearance between the Ring Gear and Pinion. He had set his Ring gear and pinion clearance to 0.010 in which is just fine but he did not adjust the clearance of the U-Joint to the bushing. He relied solely on the lock ring of the bearing assembly to hold the end play. Big mistake, I don't care what they say you cannot trust the lock ring to stay tight and hold the end play. You must adjust the end play with the U-Joint to bushing clearance just like you did with the original Ford parts or you are asking for trouble. This is good insurance and will take the strain off the lock ring.
I agree totally with Glen. I also yes the "belt and braces" approach and use the locking collar and a correctly set up bush clearance. Can't fail!!
Alan in Vancouver Airport on the way back to Australia.
2X's what Glen said. Do not let the U-joint free float you are just asking for trouble.
I may be talking about the wrong part but I purchased the double row Tapered bearing set and adjustable spool from Model T Ranch. I had to pre-load the bearings and and fasten the collar with a set screw, Then weld the collar to the driveshaft.
The unit allows you to rotate it in order to get the proper gear mesh by moving the pinion backwards and forwards as well as sideways for proper fit.
Using this technique it is not necessary for face off the front bushing to the correct length and it is also not necessary to pin the U-joint. Been running it for about five years as I recall and no problems . . . . yet.
Frank, Welding the collar to the drive shaft will solve the problem of it coming loose but is totally unnecessary. By setting the proper clearance between the U-Joint and bushing you relieve the stress on the collar that will then stay in place.
I am back from a wonderful tour put on by the MTFCI in Auburn, NY. Just a great tour.
There are several different pinion bearing kits being discussed and I have to be honest and tell you that I do not agree with some of the recommendations being given. I think some advice might be good for some bearings but I think a customer should consult with the maker of the kit they are using to determine suitable applications and/or any deviations from the instructions provided. I would be happy to speak to any customer to answer questions about our pinion bearing kit(s). Just send me an email, PM, or ring me up. I do not advise people on the proper installation of kits that are not made by us.
The best thing to do is use original Ford parts, and quit changing things from what Ford intended.
Read and install parts as recommended in the Ford Service Book. The Finger Lakes Tour was a splendid tour, and many thanks to Dan and Ellen Killecut for hosting this tour.
Can you supply good driveshaft Hyatt's then, Larry?
Roger - I suspect Larry is pretty busy removing the accessory transmission from his car that is shown in his profile photo since it's not original to the car, and not "what Ford intended", and providing "helpful" advice to others here on the forum regarding how to proceed with their own cars.