Got my 24 TT home yesterday and since I am the new guy, I have a couple questions that I need answered.
#1 where is the VIN # (that would be used on the title) located on the truck?
#2 Since I am not use to listening to these engines how do O tell if I am over revving the engine? I have taken a couple short drives on the county road everything seems to be fine but I have been pretty conservative with the rpms.
#3 With what little expermenting I have done I am guessing that to shift the Ruxtel you need to be stopped, is this correct? Thanks
Steve: If the truck has matching N'S you may find a number on the frame that matches the engine number, maybe! As to RPM's drive it conservatively. I don't over rev either of mine and they are just cars. As to the Ruckstell it can be shifted on the fly. Speed up depress the left pedal half way and reduce the throttle either push or pull the shift lever forward or pull back and release the left pedal and speed up.
It will take a bit of test driving to get used to the shifting. By depressing the left pedal, it is like double clutching a truck. They are fun to drive and sometimes a challenge to work on.
Welcome to the affliction, and if you have only 1 (ONE) you will need or get a second (@) one.
Good-Best and have fun and enjoy the ride and the compliment you will get
I forgot to tell you that in my profile you will see my Depot Hack, with a broken axle. The Diff is on the bench and has to be re-assembled. The opinion is that the axle had a flaw.
VIN is the engine number, located on a pad on the block just above the water inlet:
Here is a link to a website that among other things, has a .pdf file of a 1926 Ruckstell manual. Scroll down the list of documents to find it:
I don't own a TT, so I'll let others comment on your over-revving question, which is related to what rear axle gear ratio you have and how fast you're going.
Good luck with your TT!
1. The serial number is on the driver's side of the engine above the water connection.
2. If you over rev the engine the noise and vibration will let you know.
3. The ruckstell axle can be shifted while you're driving. If you're climbing a hill and need to downshift leave the throttle a quarter open, take the shift lever in your hand, press the clutch pedal quickly into neutral and at the same time yank the shift lever back and release the pedal. If done properly the axle with shift smoothly. To shift back into Ford gearing speed up a little bit, close the throttle and push the clutch into neutral. Shove the shift lever forward, then release the pedal while giving a little gas.
Please be aware that if your Ruckstell is worn it can get stuck between gears which causes the foot brake to no longer function. If I were you I would pull the rear end and thoroughly inspect all of the parts to make sure they're safe to use. Accessory brakes are a good idea and make certain that your hand brake will lock both of the back wheels.
There is no number on the frame of a 1924 TT or T. No reason to look for one, it does not exist.
Royce is correct that a 1924 T or TT would not have come from the factory with the engine number stamped onto the frame. Ford did not start stamping the engine numbers onto the frames until Dec 12, 1925 (1926 model year). (Ref: http://mtfca.com/encyclo/C-D.htm#Chassis2 for the Dec 12, 1925 start date for frame numbering. )
Steve since you are relatively new to Model T Fords and since even for folks familiar with Model Ts, a 1924-25 Ton Truck or Ton Truck chassis and a 1926-27 Ton Truck (TT) or chassis look very very similar. You may still want to check your frame for a serial number.
If the engine has been swapped out (a common enough practice back in the day as well as currently) and the date of the TT is based on the serial number of the current engine, then looking at the frame for a serial number makes sense. I.e. looking would either locate a serial number and date the frame as Dec 1926 or later or not finding a serial number would remove the Dec 1926 - Jan 1927 or later possibility. If you decide to look for an engine number on the frame, Ford stamped them starting in Dec 1926. They could be stamped on top of the left or right frame rail. Normally remove the front floor boards and look down at the top of the frame rails. If they are covered in rust or grease -- a wire brush etc may be needed to get the rust / grease off.
Steve, I would suggest you post some photos of your truck. Looking at a couple of your postings I did not notice if you had an after market body or a Ford supplied cab. If you have a Ford supplied cab, a photo of the instrument panel can often be helpful. If the dash has the rectangular ignition switch & amp meter panel it should be the earlier truck. If it has the oval shaped one, that is normally characteristic of 1926-27 vehicles. Note there probably was some period of overlap when the 1925 and 1926 style Ton Trucks were both being assembled -- probably at different plants -- but possibly even at the same plant.
I would also suggest that you look at some safety items -- see the second posting at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/506218/576808.html The comments about the rear thrust bearings apply to the car rear axle and NOT the Ton Truck rear axle.
I would also recommend joining the nearest Model T Ford chapter. They are listed at: http://www.mtfca.com/clubpages/chapters.htm and also http://www.modelt.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=5&Itemid=15 .
Welcome to the hobby and have fun with your truck.
Hap l9l5 cut off
Welcome, great forum with more knowledge than you can ask for.. It has been a huge help to me..