What is required to install an older aluminum Warford in a 1927 Ford Roadster? What difference will I see when it is installed. What rear end is recommended? What extra parts do I need? Does anyone have photographs of installation? Thank you for your help.
Daniel, you will need to shorten the driveshaft and tube 12", also the radius rods something close to that amount. Since you will then have both an overdrive and underdrive, I recommend using the stock 11:40 rear end gears. Aluminum Warfords have no provision for a support crossmember, some have used one but it will not be needed with your 1927 engine. The extra gear choices will give you much more flexibility and and also speed, if you want it. There is a trade off: it will take some practice to learn to shift it on the fly, and you had better have brakes on the rear wheels if you blow a shift and get stuck in neutral.
I didn't like the idea of all that unsupported weight hanging off the back of my 26 transmission. I installed one of these to just hold the weight. http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/warford-transmission-support
Also when you install the drive shaft tube, put it in upside down so the grease hole is at the bottom. I use a cup with a Zerk fitting installed to get grease to the u-joint. Also the drive shaft bushing is a zerk as well on my car. Gravity won't assist in getting grease to these areas.
To fit the radius rods, cut and slide one end into the other. Get the rear end assembly square and weld the radius rods at the new joint.
THis is an interesting thread for me, with my cast-iron Warford installation coming up soon.
Where is the best place to shorten the driveshaft tube? Any photos or tips on this procedure will be much appreciated!
Chris, some Tubes are stepped and so are easy to take 12 inches out of them. Some are tapered all of the way and are more difficult to cut on the slope. The drive shaft must be shortened and you decide which end to cut off and re-machine as it was. The radius rods need to be shortened too.
Don't the tapered ones have a straight section at the rear? When you cut and weld them make sure the rear flange is indexed to the radius rods mounts and rear end housing. There was one on ebay for a while that who ever did it forgot.
I cut the shaft and machine a new front end. Takes a lathe and a mill. I use a tool post grinder to give a nice finish for the bushing. Never cut and weld a shaft. Just don't, it is asking for vibration and worse. On the tube I cut it just forward of the rear flange and weld it there. Both pieces are trued in the lathe before welding. Works for all years of tubes and preserves the stepped look of the late ones. I put the tubes in my big lathe and true up the rear face of the flange if needed, usually it is not. It takes about 4 hours to do both, at least that is what we are charging. On the radius rods it is best to build up the rear end first and shorten them to match. Some of them can be cut and telescoped together then welded.
A Warford will not bother a 26/27 engine with the bolted hogshead. It is the earlier engines that are affected.
Erik, do you have a picture of your lathe set up for the tube? PK