Rear Axle Radius Rod Fitment

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Rear Axle Radius Rod Fitment
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Otto on Wednesday, July 20, 2016 - 09:17 pm:

My car is a 23 and the rear axle looks to be stock. The car did not come with rear radius rods. I've acquire two different styles. However neither one of them seem to go all the way through eyelets on the torque tube when bolted up to the backing plates.
Am I missing something? Is there another style (longer) radius rod out there?
Here are pictures of each style.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Schrope - Upland, IN on Wednesday, July 20, 2016 - 09:42 pm:

26 & 27 Rods are shorter. That's probably what you have that is to short.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Wednesday, July 20, 2016 - 09:51 pm:

The first pair would be correct for 1923 with small drum rear end. The 2ed pair is for big drum 26/27.
I see an additional transmission mounted. Are you going to extend the frame or have these parts been cut down? If they have been cut down then maybe for one of the other transmissions.
How about a photo of the whole thing. Does anything look bent?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Wednesday, July 20, 2016 - 11:01 pm:

Chris, the first pair could also be for 26-7 models. We need to see the Y at the rear end.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Otto on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 07:20 am:

I am extending the frame. Here are pictures of the rod attached to the axle.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Otto on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 07:22 am:

Here are the radius arm ends for the rods that I believe are correct for the small drum axle.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rick Goelz-Knoxville,TN on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 10:06 am:

The picture shows them to be upside down, the seam goes down.

Rick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 10:14 am:

Looks like you've got '26/'27 radius rods and a small drum axle. Try swap a pair for the '14-'25 style instead :-)

Ss


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Otto on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 10:26 am:

Yea, I caught the seam after the picture. Flipped them around with the same results.

Roger, thank you for the picture. I'll now be looking for the proper arms.

Thanks everyone.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 02:12 pm:

There are actually two types of rods which fit 26-27. One has two nuts on the end and the later one has the flange with one nut. I think both sets are for the 26-27. I re looked at your picture and notice that you have an auxiliary transmission behind the T transmission so your rods have been shortened to fit. So I would say either they are for a 25-27 or they have been shortened too much.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Otto on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 02:18 pm:

Norm the rods are stock. The car did not come with any. These are ones I picked up.
I agree with everyone that I have 2 sets of '26/'27 rods.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 04:16 pm:

You will either need to stretch your frame to make the rear axle fit or shorten the driveshaft to place the axle under the rear crossmember. If you shorten the driveshaft, you will also need to shorten the radius rods. So shorten them to the length they would fit correctly to the shortened driveshaft. That would be a simple way to fix your problem. If you do shorten the driveshaft, be sure to do it in a way which is safe and won't break while driving. Someone who has done this would be better to describe it. I once had a shaft which had been welded which broke at the weld and put my car into freewheeling. So I wouldn't want to give advice on how to shorten it. You need someone experienced to to that. You might be able to grind flat surfaces so it would fit the universal joint without any welding, but the outer tube would need to be shortened and welded.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Otto on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 05:21 pm:

Norm, I'm stretching the frame. I have plans for the sheet metal and want the extra length.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 05:30 pm:

Chris, may I make a suggestion. Rather than extend your frame, you could use another damaged donor frame to add the extra length you need. That way you can make the cut to give the extra length and you will only have one join in the frame.

I did this on my shooting brake. The frame was then plated at the join, utilising existing rivet/bolt holes as much as possible. Body mount brackets and running board mounts rivets were included, with just two extra rivets either side of the join.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bruce Compton on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 07:16 pm:

Are not all ('09-'27) the rear radius rods the same overall length with the same bolt spacing at the backing plate end??? Bruce


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Otto on Friday, July 22, 2016 - 10:46 am:

Allan, that is the direction I am heading with lengthening/stretching the frame. I have spare frame ready to go under the knife.


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