Pictured is the front seatback wood I purchased from Lang's.
They warned me that it will require some fitment.
Below I will post pictures of the rear corners they can't provide.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Yes indeed - you will need to carefully trim and fit those parts. I did that recently on Popeye, you will need something like a belt sander to make decent time on this job. It needs to be done slowly so you don't have to do as I did and glue a piece back on where I trimmed a bit too much. Those pieces of wood need to fit fairly well because they give the top of the seat back shape and provide a place to either staple or nail to.
Which brings up the next recommendation - use an air staple gun to install the upholstery. It takes forever to nail.
Chris its good that Langs gave you a heads up on fitting wood kits.
More than once people have bought wood kits and have been disappointed when they receive the wood and try to start fitting the wood pieces.
You can do it. Take your time and don't get in a hurry.
The T body wood kits just don't easily drop in but will work with some fitting.
THATS OAK OR ASH BE VERY CAREFULL OR YOU WILL HAVE A PILE OF SPLIT PIECES. CHARLEY
On my flicker page (25Touring) are some pics
Those holes in the sheet metal are where the bolts go through the wood and bolt to the joining brackets.
I think I would take some pine and work with that to create a pattern of what you need. Once the pattern is correct, use it to shape the oak. You may find that it takes two or three attempts before it comes together for you. Pine is cheap and much easier to work with ...
To go a step further, take a piece of card and scissors to get the bottom curve pattern between the side and back piece. You can do the same for the top of the corner piece. The ends can be match using the same method. Hope this helps.
Time to go on another search for parts!
THOSE joints are no where close. i could send you pics of what it is supposed to look like. charley
Here's a shot of the rear seat. The hardest pieces I put in the car were the rear seat corners. I only have one started in this pic. Also, the brackets for holding the wood rails together in my car are originals except one. It's just a flat of bar stock with two holes in it. The originals have a dimple where the wood joints occur. You need 4 in the front and two for the rear. The metal corner uprights take care of the other two
Here's what my '23 Popeye looked like after the wood was fit, but before I wire wheeled and primed the metal parts. Lots of work here before you get the upholstery in.
I first made my pieces out of soft wood just as Don mentions. I had no patterns to work from so the curves and joints were off. A little trick I used to get the correct shape was using Bondo. Tape plastic to the body panel, put tape over the piece you are fitting to, coat the rough piece with plenty of Bondo, and assemble it before the Bondo sets up. After it does you can take it apart easily and you end up with a perfect pattern to make your final piece from.
I used a chunk of Styrofoam for my patterns. Still a tough job, at least for me
Styrofoam sounds like a medium that I can handle. Then I could cover it with fiberglass or something similar.
Was it just me or did anybody else hear Royce grown when I posted that comment mentioning Styrofoam?
I was just kidding I promise to do my best to keep the vehicle true to form. Where my talent runs short, which happens often, I will bring in experts to shore up the gap.
chris!! send me your e-mail address so i can send you pics. i have two sets of the wood for the rear seat. that corner pice has to be cut standing up on a jig at 28 deg or it will not fit. charley
Charley, you are a hero!
I'm at Chris@Laughary.com