I know originally 21" split rims were plated, but the ones that I have on the car now are painted silver. I was thinking of having them bead blasted and then repaint them silver.
The question...what's a good "rattle can" silver. I know in the past that silver paint wasn't very tough when compared to other colors but I think that has changed. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
There are some touchup 'galvanizing' paints in rattle cans which are very durable. If blasted to bare metal I believe this paint would be excellent, it is used in outdoor structural applications to coat unplated and damaged areas of galvanized steel, eg, field welded seams, scrapes etc in galvanized steel. jb
I used a silver colored Krylon paint from Home Depot that has a swirl pattern that looks like Zinc galvanizing. Used it on my Ford or gas tank. It looks just like galvanizing and spilled gas has not seemed to affect it.
I have used the cold galvanizing in the spray can, seems to hold up pretty good.
The real answer of course is either cadmium plating or electro zinc plating
I used Rust-Oleum on my rims, and I can't remember if it was silver, aluminum, or chrome paint. We have all three in our shop most of the time, and one of them looks pretty close to a bright galvanized finish, at least from a distance of standing up and looking down at the wheels.
When we paint our tractor rims we spend a little more money on paint and buy the silver paint sold by CaseIH. It seems to hold its shine better than Rust-Oleum. Not as important on my car as I'd rather drive it than keep it purdy. But for show tractors that spend most of their lives in our "museum", the shine is more important.
The galv. paint was developed for the applications mentioned by James. Primarily weld touch-ups. Great stuff. Durable.
If you're going to the trouble to bead blast them, why not have them replated? Cad is a dirty word now a days, but clear zinc with a chromate sealer is not that expensive to have done.
Thanks for the information so far guys. Les mentions the traditional plating, does anyone have a guess at the price per wheel to have this done. I plan on doing five rims total.
Don't waste your time on paint! Do it the correct way! That would be zinc plating.
Charles, Steve Jelf mentions his cost for hot dipping in zinc in this thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/451702.html?1402668278
Mance Plating in Imperial PA priced to zinc plate model T rims at 75.00 per. Not dipped. They need to be clean, and smooth no deep sand blast pits.
Keep in mind that clear zinc is an electrodeposited coating and is a totally different process from hot dip galvanizing where the part is actually dipped in a bath of molten zinc. In order to get a uniform finish, I've found that glass beading the rims prior to plating gives a much nicer result compared to sandblasting. $75. ea seems kinda high for clear zinc, and I'm in California! But. . . . .
I'll repeat some of what I posted in Roger's link above.
Electroplating: Whether with zinc or cadmium, I don't care for it. Modern nuts and bolts (electroplated cadmium) are nearly as susceptible to rust as bare steel, and modern roofing nails (electroplated zinc) turn to rust spots in a few years.
Cadmium: Why? Ford used zinc.
Hot dip: Thicker than electroplating, for long term rust prevention. The few drips I found on my seven rims were easily corrected with a little filing.
Galvanizing: This term means coating with zinc, whether hot dipped or electroplated. Whenever this discussion comes up, somebody is usually confused on the meaning of the term.
I'll add that $75 per rim for electroplating is more than double what I paid for hot dip galvanizing. Not my idea of the way to go.
Here is a 2012 thread in which I recommended a bright silver roofing paint manufactured by Sherwin Williams called "Silver Bright". The brightest, best looking, most durable silver paint I have found in 45 years of Model T interest. Jim Patrick