So one of my projects this week was making 3 rear tapered spring leaves. I did the tapering and the spring manufacturer did the shaping. I got them back Friday and they fit perfectly. Last night I looked in Langs catalog and figuring in freight and currency conversion I figure I saved about $800.00. Not bad for about 3 hours work
I'd like to save about $800 on a new radiator for the TT. Any suggestions ?
I got the radiator recored for my '67 F100 project for about $450.00. That got me a good quality 4 row core suitable for AC service. You might have to shop around. I've also built a couple of radiators. Bought the core with the header plates to my dimensions. The cores here are made in the next city up. I enjoy making stuff and the challenge of learning new skills.
I'm not sure if this helps but I hope it does
I was kidding. These things sell for $800. Save $800 and that
pretty much makes it a no cost fix.
At the rate I am spending money on this engine, I can use any
angle I can find !!!
Les,It is a shame,as I have a bunch of rear tapered spring leaves. Mine are mostly the bottom ones.The shorter top leaves are always the first to break.
Yes two of the three I made were the shorter ones. I'm discussing making a complete new taper leaf front but with reversed eyes. Of course you can buy a new spring and you can buy a reversed eye main but then you end up owning a new standard main leaf surplus
Turning around a main leaf to get the eyes reversed isn't hard - it isn't really necessary to alter the main leaf at all, you can force it together with an all thread, but I chose to rebend it to the new shape in a large vice with a pipe as a lever. First I learned not to bend over the center hole, ever - it doesn't take much to crack it there - but the next main I tried was easily shaped to fit upside down. The second leaf needs to be shortened to fit.
Pictures of my bending here: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/335975.html?1358562639
Your comment about trying to bend in the area of the centre hole would probably explain the market for just the lower leaf
You also need a carbide drill bit too make new oil holes
If you want a tapered front spring, then it's before the era of oilers in the spring eye, it should be in the shackles.
But I prefer delrin bushings and no need for oil - there
So you have had good luck with the delrin? Can you provide any information to help the rest us?
Well, I didn't make them myself, so the material is a guess, teflon would likely also work. They were made just a tad too thick and I didn't have any lathe at the time, so I had a lot of work trying to sand them thinner - the sand paper didn't bite, neither did any other methods I used. Finally I cut a slit in each of them with a hacksaw, that made them fit and I've had no trouble with those front shackles on my pickup since I started driving it about two years ago.
I wonder how the fit of your new spring leafs are?
Usually a rear spring leaf from one spring will not conform to another, and there is nothing worse in my mind than a rear spring leaf(s)that you can see daylight through. Taper leaf rear springs used to be easy to find, but not any more. Fronts have always been difficult to find.
That is the advantage of dealing with a local supplier. I took the leaf to them that I needed it to fit to